Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Lolong the Crocodile

OK! Here was the news!

MANILA, Philippines (UPDATED) - A monster 21-foot (6.4-meter) saltwater crocodile, believed to be the biggest ever captured, has been trapped in the southern Philippines after a spate of fatal attacks, officials said Tuesday.
The 1,075-kilogram (2,370-pound) male is suspected of eating a farmer who went missing in July in the town of Bunawan, and of killing a 12-year-old girl whose head was bitten off two years ago, crocodile hunter Rollie Sumiller said.
The hunter examined the crocodile's stomach contents by forcing it to vomit after it was captured Saturday, but there was no trace of human remains or of several water buffaloes also reported missing by locals.
"The community was relieved," Sumiller said of the capture, but added: "We're not really sure if this is the man-eater, because there have been other sightings of other crocodiles in the area."
The local government of the impoverished town of 30,000 people has decided against putting down the reptile, and will instead build a nature park where it will go on display.
Josefina de Leon, wildlife division chief at the Philippines environment ministry, said the beast was likely the biggest crocodile ever captured anywhere in the world.
"Based on existing records the largest that had been captured previously was 5.48 metres long," she told AFP.
The Philippine specimen would easily dwarf the largest captive saltwater crocodile, which the Guinness World Records website lists as Cassius, a 5.48-meter (18-foot) male which lives at an Australian nature park.
Press reports also describe other huge crocs including a 6.2-meter (20.3-foot) adult male killed in Papua New Guinea in 1982 that was measured after it was skinned.
The Bunawan hunting team, employed by a government-run crocodile breeding farm, began laying bait using chicken, pork and dog meat on August 15 in an attempt to snare the beast.
But the reptile, which measured 3 feet (0.91 meters) across its back, simply bit off both the meat and the line it was skewered on.
A heavy metal cable finally proved beyond the power of its jaws, and the beast was subdued in a creek late Saturday with the help of about 30 local men.
It was the team's second attempt after a failed expedition launched in response to the fatal 2009 attack.
Beyond the mark of the hook inside its upper jaw, the crocodile did not appear to have sustained any serious injuries, Sumiller said.
Bunawan Mayor Edwin Cox Elorde said the government would build a nature park showcasing the giant crocodile and other species found in the vast marshland on the upper reaches of the massive Agusan river basin on Mindanao island.
"It will be the biggest star of the park," Elorde told reporters.
Sumiller said the plan was the best option available for the creature.
"He's a problem crocodile that needs to be taken from the wild... and used for eco-tourism," he said.
Crocodylus porosus, or the estuarine crocodile, is the world's largest reptile. It grows to 5 or 6 meters in length and can live up to 100 years.
While not considered an endangered species globally, it is "critically endangered" in the Philippines, where it is hunted for its hide which is used in the fashion industry, de Leon said.
"There have been very few sightings of porosus in the wild in the Philippines in recent years," she added.
In July, a saltwater crocodile measuring almost 14 feet (4.2 meters) was caught on the western Philippine island of Palawan after it killed a man.

Now they are planning for an Ecopark for Lolong.

MANILA, Philippines - Local officials of Agusan del Sur are planning to build an ecopark around giant crocodile "Lolong" in an effort to boost tourism in the province.
This as more and more people want to get a glimpse of the crocodile, which is widely believed to be the biggest caught alive in the world.
"Proud na proud kami, kaya we are hoping na madevelop ang tourism dito para na rin makatulong sa constituents," said Engr. Robert Salise, municipal planning and development coordinator.
Those who live in areas near the Agusan marsh said that giant crocodiles such as Lolong have affected their way of life. Resident Teodoro Salon, for one, said many of them feel uneasy out of fear of being attacked.
"Kapag may nagpupunta sa sapa, sabi ko 'wag kayong paligo-ligo diyan, may mga buwaya!' O ngayon, hindi na sila masyadong kumpiyansa," said Salon, who has seen several giant crocodiles in the marsh.
Signs have been placed around the marsh to warn people about the presence of crocodiles in the Agusan marsh. Residents and tourists were also advised to come in groups to preempt a crocodile attack.
Fishing is still allowed in the marsh, except from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., when crocodiles are most active.
"Ang mga mangingisda namin siyempre takot nang mangisda sa sapa, alam kasi nila may ibang buwaya pa diyan," said barangay captain Teofanis Adlawan.
Lolong measures 21 feet long and 3.5 feet wide, and weighs 1,075 kilos. The male crocodile is believed to be 50 years old.
Proper care
Lolong may be groomed to become the next major tourist attraction in Agusan del Sur, but just like other animals, he needs proper care and attention.
The Department of Environment and Natural Resources has assigned its Protected Areas and Wildlife Bureau to help the local government of Agusan del Sur take care of the giant crocodile.
Government officials in the province, for their part, assured that they will keep Lolong in the pink of health.
On Wednesday, Mayor Edwin "Cox" Elorde of Bunawan town said the giant crocodile is still recovering from stress caused by its capture.
Meanwhile, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals urged local officials to free Lolong following news that the reptile is not eating while in captivity. -- Report from Atom Araullo, ABS-CBN News


credits to: http://www.abs-cbnnews.com

But I've heard a news that a group of people want to free Lolong. I just had a very nice thought about this people. Yes! I know it was their opinion so I'll give mine too. Here is it, you guys gotta listen carefully. lol


First, Lolong was a threat to the villagers of the place where he was captured. He has eaten a water buffalo and suspected to be the responsible for the missing fisherman last July. People all over the world been reacting like, "That crocodile have live his life 100years free, and it should be very sad for him to live the rest of his life in cage so they should free the crocs!" Have they ever thought that, what if this croc would attack people near the shores? Would it be fair for humans? Yes it is nature, but I bet if there is a crocodile and a human that is in danger and you can only save one you will save the human right? If you guys think of freeing Lolong, think of this first, what if you're a villager in the place where Lolong has been captured? Is it okay to free a crocodile in your backyards? Do you think you will still cry, "Free Lolong! He has live 100years of his life free and he should live the rest of it free!" Think of it guys. thank you.

frontosa

Cyphotilapia frontosa



The king of Lake Tanganyika, this showpiece can attain lengths over 12 inches! "Fronts," as they're affectionally called, are by far the most popular tanganyikan cichlid. It's not just their impressive size or elaborate fins alone that make them so popular among aquarists, but rather their amiable and outgoing personality (not to mention that good quality fry are always in demand). This fish is like a puppy - after a short acclimization period, they'll eat right out of your hand. Wild specimens are just as gregarious as tank-raised individuals, which is a rare trait among piscovores. Despite being less active and non-aggressive, they excitably greet their owner with the same type of enthusiasm as mbuna.
Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma'' maleFrontosa are characterized by a white (or blue) body, adorned with either 6 or 7 black, vertical bars. Adults develop a large cephalic hump, with that of males usually being more pronounced. The hump is a large fatty deposit that rests atop a dorsal muscle that tends to extend forward. The hump develops and increases in size with age and is usually a sign of sexual fecundity. Their fins become more elaborate with age as well. There is nothing quite like the sight of a 10-year old frontosa with his long fins waving gracefully below and behind him.
Frontosa are found in many different locations in the lake, but always in the deeper portions along the coastline - 10-50 m (30-170 ft). Like many sedentary animals (e.g., tortoise), Fronts have an unusually long life span of over 25 years. This sedentary behavior has probably been the impetus for the development of several geographic variants. The ones pictured on this page are all from Burundi. Other geographical races come from Kigoma, Bulu Point, Mpimbwe, Samazi, Kasanga, Chaitika, Kapampa, Kavala, and Zaire. For a detailed description of their differences, visit the Frontosa Variant Map. Many other varieties exist, but for now they are considered to be junior races of the ones listed above and documented on the Frontosa Variant Map.
Cyphotilapia frontosa is a monomorphic species with little or no difference between males and females. Males usually have a larger hump than females, but this characteristic is by no means a garauntee. Frontosa can only be sexed reliably by venting, and even this method cannot always be trusted. Venting frontosa accurately requires experience. Males also tend to be larger - they can grow to over 12 inches while females are lucky to reach 10 inches - but this too is not always true. In short, be cautious of any one ready to sell you sexed frontosa; make sure they're experienced and reputable.
As already mentioned, C. frontosa is a lethargic and slow-moving fish. Even in the lake they don't expend much energy in hunting down their food. Nature has endowed them with a unique trait which gives them an advantage over their prey - Fronts are nocturnal feeders and don't require much light to wake up.
Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma'' femaleFish make up the majority of their diet, Cyprichromis species being their primary target. Cyps spend the day in large schools (numbering in tens of thousands) in the upper water column, but at dusk, they descend to the bottom where they hug the substratum. Fronts, still awake and alert, easily scoop the unsuspecting Cyps up by the mouthful. Because of the ease with which they are able to feast upon the Cyps, frontosa don't have to spend much energy chasing their food, a chase they would certainly lose to the agile Cyps during the day.
In the tank, this cichlid can be fed small feeder fish (live or frozen), mysis, shrimp, krill, and worms. Pellets are also a good food, but flakes should be avoided after they reach 4 or 5 inches in total length. Flakes will either go ignored or get too messy and are not adequate to bring them into breeding condition.
In the wild, frontosa live in large groups called colonies. In the aquarium, they should also be kept in larger groups, although they can be kept successfully in groups as small as four individuals (1 male:3 females). You'll have the best luck keeping only one adult male, and if your colony is larger, a second, subdominant male who will eventually replace the alpha-male. If you're growing your Fronts up, the "best" method is to acquire 12-15 individuals (all unrelated and from the same race) and put them in a tank of their own.
Of these 12 or 15 fry, half will probably be female. It will be a solid three or four years before they will reach sexual maturity, so we have time on our hands, and what we want to do with this time is weed out the males. As time progresses, the largest of the group will be a male. Sell this male off. Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma''In another six months' time, do this again, selling or trading the largest Front. Repeat this practice every six months or so until you are left with five or six Fronts. By now, all your males should be gone. You can verify this by venting them (i.e., checking their tubes). After three to four years time, they'll be ready to start spawning. When they are, buy yourself a beautiful, adult male and make him your stud. It is not hard to find large, healthy adults. Wild-caught males are usually available as well, at reasonable prices. The reason for doing this is to ensure that your male is of different stock than your females, which will help to ensure good fry with fewer deformities. This is important if you plan to sell your fry.
The tank should be decorated simply with a few rocks, which are important to give these shy cichlids a sense of security. Don't overdo it with lots of rocks or sharp rocks. These fish move slow until they get spooked - then they are lightning fast and very clumsy. The alpha-male will be your largest and oddly enough, shyest of the group. He will need a cave, but the females do alright in the open. While not always a success aethestically, clay pots can be used to create caves. Lace rock works well as does slate if placed on its side to create alleys and secretive coves. 40 gallons will work well as a grow-out tank. For a colony of 10 adults, a 125-gallon tank or bigger is recommended.
Patience is necessary if you plan to breed this wonderful fish. Three to four years are required for a 1-inch fish to reach sexual maturity. Sexually active males turn Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma''blue, especially the snout region. He will select an open, yet secluded area which is only weakly defended. When he has a willing female's attention, he will slowly pass over the spot with his fins folded. Spawning is very inconspicuous - no shaking, no flashing of fins, or sparring with conspecifics. As the male passes over the selected spot, he releases his milt, showing the female where to go. Some have hypothesized that the milt may serve to encourage the female to lay her eggs. She will then pass over the spot in the same manner as the male, slowly and with fins folded. After dropping an egg, she will back up - not turn around - to pick it up. She will repeat this procedure, "rocking back and forth" four to six times. Apparently, the male's milt is powerful enough to fertilize eggs several minutes after it is released.
Broods number anywhere from 20 to 50 fry, and maybe even as high as 80, depending upon the condition of the female and the variant. Females will hold for a period of 5 weeks. Fry should be separated and raised apart from the adults. Any small fish (under 3 inches) is regarded as food by adult frontosa.


credits to: Marc Elieson

The Polypteridae are primitive, snake-like fish from Africa. They are predatory and essentially carnivorous, but largely opportunistic feeders. They are able to breathe air via a lung-like modification to their swim bladder, and can travel over land using their strong pelvic fins. For this reason, a tight-fitting lid is recommended for the aquarium, to prevent any escapes.

The are two genera: the genus Erpetoichthys contains only one species - E. calabaricus, known as the Rope or Reed Fish. The other genus contains the Polypterus species (bichirs), of which there are more than a dozen species and subspecies described .


Erpetoichthys calabaricus
Scientific name: Erpetoichthys calabaricus (Smith, 1865)

Common name(s): Ropefish, Reedfish, Snakefish

Origin: West Africa, Cameroon and Nigeria

Max reported size (TL): 960mm (36")

Description: This fish is very elongate, and lacks the pelvic fins found on the Polypterus species. The dorsal surface is olive green to brownish, with the ventral surface being a lighter yellow-orange colour. There is a dark spot on the base of the pectoral fins. The max size quoted above is unlikely to be seen in aquarium specimens.

Comments: Ropefish are sociable with their own kind and intraspecific aggression is not generally observed. They are also safe to keep with any other fish which are large enough not to fit in their mouths.



Polypterus ansorgiiScientific name: Polypterus ansorgii (Boulenger, 1910)

Synonyms: Polypterus ansorgei

Common name(s): Guinean bichir

Origin: West Africa (Guinea). Possibly distributed from Ogun River (Nigeria) to Corbal River (Guinea Bissau), although this wider distribution is unconfirmed and may arise from misidentification of P. bichir.

Max reported size (TL): 280mm (11")

Description: Greenish-black colouration with large dark blotches on the flanks. The jaws are of similar length, though the lower jaw is likely to protude slightly on mature specimens. The 12-15 dorsal finlets extend forward to the rear of the pectoral fins.

Comments: A rare bichir which appears to have a restricted natural distribution and is not generally exported for the aquarium trade. It is likely that it has been confused with other species (e.g. p47 of the Aquarien-Atlas vol. 6 shows P. palmas). The available description of this species is based on only a small number of museum specimens, and it is possible that characters such as the maximum size may be innacurate.

Polypterus bichir
Scientific name: Polypterus bichir (Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, E. 1802)

Synonyms: Polypterus bichir bichir

Common name(s): Nile bichir

Origin: Nile River, Lake Rudolf and Omo River, Lake Chad, Chari and Logone Rivers.

Max reported size (TL): 680mm (27")

Description: Dark greyish colour on dorsal surface, with irregular vertical bands on flanks. Dark horizontal bands on the sides of juveniles can usually be seen faintly in the adults. Prominent lower jaw longer than upper jaw. 14-18 dorsal spines.

Comments: The longest known and type-species of the genus Polypterus.

Polypterus katangae
Scientific name: Polypterus katangae (Poll, 1941)

Synonyms: Polypterus bichir katangae

Common name(s): None

Origin: Central Africa (Katanga region)

Max reported size (TL): 460mm (18")

Description: Olive-grey dorsal surface and whitish ventral surface. Lower jaw longer than upper jaw. 12-14 dorsal spines present.

Comments: There is a strong possibility that this species is synonymous with P. (endlicheri) congicus, as it occurs within the range of that species, and cannot be differentiated from it by meristic characters.

Polypterus lapradei
Scientific name: Polypterus lapradei (Steindachner, 1869)

Synonyms: Polypterus bichir lapradei

Common name(s): None

Origin: Most of West Africa

Max reported size (TL): 740mm (30")

Description: Grey to greenish-grey colouration, with a paler ventral surface. Horizontal bands evident on the upper surface from the head to the dorsal finlets, and extending about halfway along the side of the body from behind the gills. The flanks have irregular vertical bands. Prominent lower jaw longer than upper jaw. 13-17 dorsal spines.

Comments: This species is now a fairly common import, and captive-bred fish are also available in the trade.

P. lapradei is very difficult to distinguish from P. bichir, particularly when markings are faded, as in stressed or newly imported fish.



[b]Polypterus delhezi

Scientific name: Polypterus delhezi (Boulenger, 1899)

Common name(s): Armoured bichir, banded bichir

Origin: Central Africa: Congo river, Upper and middle Congo

Max reported size (TL): 350mm (14")

Description: The upper surface is greyish, with hints of green or yellowish colouration. The ventral surface is a uniform lighter colour. There are 7-8 dark vertical bands which vary in thickness between individuals. 10-13 dorsal finlets. The mouth is relatively small for the fish's size.

Comments: This bichir is quite commonly available. Captive-bred fish are available in the trade, but many seem to lack the more intense markings of wild-caught fish.



Polypterus endlicheri congicus
Scientific name: Polypterus endlicheri congicus (Boulenger, 1898)

Common name(s): Congo bichir

Origin: Congo basin, Lake Tanganyika

Max reported size (TL): 970mm (39")

Description: Colour can be yellowish-brown to grey. There are several dark vertical bands. Black spots are often present on the head region. The lower jaw is more prominent, extending beyond the upper jaw. Dorsal spines extend forward to the rear of the pectoral fins.



Polypterus endlicheri endlicheri
Scientific name: Polypterus endlicheri endlicheri (Heckel, 1847)

Common name(s): Saddled bichir, Red bichir

Origin: Nigeria, Lake Chad, White Nile

Max reported size (TL): 750mm (30")

Description: Irregular vertical bands are present along the sides of the fish, which do not extend fully onto the ventral surface, which is a uniform whitish-yellow colour. Black spots are present on the head, body and caudal fin. Prominent lower jaw is longer than the upper jaw. 11-15 dorsal finlets.



Polypterus mokelembembe
Scientific name: Polypterus mokelembembe (Schliewen &Schafer, 2006)

Synonyms:

Common name(s):

Origin: Central Africa, Congo River basin.

Max reported size (SL): 340mm (14")

Description: Normally yellowish-brown in colour, with large dark blotches on the dorsal surface, extending down the sides of the fish as irregular bands. There is a large dark spot on the base of the pectoral fins. 6-8 dorsal finlets present.

Comments: This species is rarely imported, and has previously been imported under the name P. retropinnis. In the description of this new species, the authors of the paper referenced below found the original type series of three specimens of P. retropinnis to be mixed. One of them was the species that has been known as P. sp. "Congo"/Zaire Green bichir (which is now designated as the "true" P. retropinnis), and the other two are the species previously known in the hobby as P. retropinnis (with broad saddle stripes) - this species is now designated P. mokelembembe.



Polypterus ornatipinnis
Scientific name: Polypterus ornatipinnis (Boulenger, 1902)

Common name(s): Ornate bichir

Origin: Central and East Africa: Congo river basin, Lake Tanganyika

Max reported size (TL): 600mm (24")

Description: The striking black and yellow patterning of this species extends into the fins, making for a very attractively patterned bichir. The head has a finely reticulated pattern. 9-11 dorsal spines present.

Comments: This is the largest of the protuding upper jaw species of Polypterus.



Polypterus palmas buettikoferi
Scientific name: Polypterus palmas buettikoferi (Steindachner, 1891)

Common name(s): Buettikofer's bichir

Origin: West Africa

Max reported size (SL): 353mm (14")

Description: The dorsal surface in front of the dorsal spines has forward-pointing "V-shaped" markings, which extend as diagonal bands onto the lateral surface. There are also diagonal bands on the flanks. Juveniles have a more dense colour pattern. The ventral surface is a uniform pale yellowish colour. Dorsal finlets have contrasting dark and light colouration. There are 7-10 dorsal spines.



Polypterus palmas palmas
Scientific name: Polypterus palmas palmas (Ayres, 1850)

Common name(s): Marbled bichir, Shortfin bichir, dinosaur eel

Origin:West Africa: Congo, Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone

Max reported size (SL): 298mm (12")

Description: The dorsal area in front of the dorsal finlets has irregular small spots. The ventral surface has a uniform lighter colouration. The pectoral fins are usually spotted. The membranes of the dorsal finlets have contrasting light and dark colouration. 7-9 dorsal spines are present.

Comments: There is some confusion with respect to the identity of species within the P. palmas complex, with additional variants awaiting formal description.

Polypterus palmas polli
Scientific name: Polypterus palmas polli (Gosse, 1988)

Common name(s): Poll's bichir

Origin: West & Central Africa, Congo River

Max reported size (SL): 321mm (13")

Description: Dorsal surface has large dark blotches forming a mottled pattern. Ventral surface has a uniform lighter colouration. The base of the pectoral fin has a large dark spot. 5-7 dorsal spines.

Comments: This species seems to be commonly available in most parts of the world, and may be imported simply as P. palmas.




Polypterus retropinnis
Scientific name: Polypterus retropinnis (Vaillant, 1899)

Synonyms:

Common name(s):

Origin: West and Central Africa

Max reported size (SL): 340mm (14")

Description: The species now designated as the "true" retropinnis (see below) has similarities both to species of the palmas complex, and also (in colouration) to P. weeksii. The body appears very elongated. In older specimens it is much less heavily built than P. weeksii, and does not have the large head of that species. It has been imported in mixed shipments with P. weeksii, and could be misidentified as such in the trade. The pattern is subdued and similar to the palmas species on the flanks.

Comments: It has previously been proposed that there were two subspecies of P. retropinnis: P. retropinnis lowei and P. retropinnis retropinnis. However, P. retropinnis lowei has been synonymised with P. palmas palmas.

However, there is a new twist in the designation of P. retropinnis. In the paper referenced below, the authors state that the type series (of three specimens) for P. retropinnis is of mixed composition: two are the fish known in the hobby as P. retropinnis (with broad saddle markings) - which are now designated as the new P. mokelembembe - and the third is the species known in the hobby as Polypterus sp. "Congo" or Zaire Green Bichir - which is now designated as the "true" retropinnis.



Polypterus senegalus meridionalis
Scientific name: Polypterus senegalus meridionalis (Poll, 1941)

Common name(s): None

Origin: Central Africa: Lualaba River and affluents in Katanga (Congo Dem Rep), Congo River down to Yangambi.

Max reported size (TL): 700mm (28")

Description: Uniform olive-grey colouration. 9-10 dorsal spines. Jaws appromiately equal length.

Comments: The designation of this separate subspecies is still in question - it may derive simply from a regional variant of P. senegalus senegalus.

Polypterus senegalus senegalus
Scientific name: Polypterus senegalus senegalus (Cuvier, 1829)

Common name(s): Senegal bichir, Grey/Gray bichir, Dinosaur eel

Origin: Africa: Nile basin and West Africa, including Gambia, Niger, Senegal, Volta and Lake Chad basins.

Max reported size (TL): 505mm (20")

Description: Uniform brownish-grey to olive colour on dorsal surface, ventral surface whitish. No banding on adults, very young juveniles show three horizontal bands. Upper jaw slightly longer than lower jaw. 8-11 dorsal finlets.

Comments: One of the more commonly available species, it is also one of the more active bichirs during daylight hours.



Polypterus teugelsi
Scientific name: Polypterus teugelsi (Britz, 2004)

Synonyms: Polypterus sp. "Cameroon"

Common name(s): None

Origin: Cameroon, Upper Cross River

Max reported size (SL): 415mm (16")

Description: The colouraton is different to all other Polypterus, comprising a network of black markings on the upper surface of the body, black pectoral fins and an orange ventral surface. 7-9 dorsal finlets.

Comments: This recently described species resembles P. retropinnis and also the P. palmas complex. Apart from colouration, P. teugelsi differs from P. retropinnis in a number of other diagnostic characters, mostly related to its more elongate body.

Polypterus weeksii
Scientific name: Polypterus weeksii (Boulenger, 1898)

Common name(s): Weeks' bichir, Fat-headed bichir, Mottled bichir

Origin: Central Africa: Congo river basin

Max reported size (TL): 540mm (22")

Description: This species usually has a very clear distinction between the dark greyish-green dorsal surface and the whitish ventral surface. Several dark bands are present which may fork towards the bottom. The head is relatively large, giving rise to one of the common names of 'fat-headed' bichir. This species retains external gills much longer than most other Polypterus species. There are 9-11 dorsal finlets.

Comments: The Weeks' bichir seems to have a mild temperament and mixes well with other Polypterus species. However, the large mouth is capable of swallowing surprisingly large fishes, so any tankmates must be much bigger than the fish's mouth.

credits to: polypterus.info

Arapaima gigas

Brief intro..
The Arapaima fish is also known as the Pirarucu, and is one of the biggest freshwater fish species in the world. Its scientific name is Arapaima gigas. This fish can only be found wild in the Amazon River Basin in South America. It can reach a length of 450 centimeters (177.17 inches) and weigh up to 200 kilograms (440 lbs). The Arapaima is grey and decorated with an orange speckling at the posterior end. The scales can grow up to six centimeters long on the largest Arapaima specimens. You will find two symmetrical fins on the body, located at the posterior end.

The Arapaima is a predatory fish that eats fish, birds and any other animal that it can catch. The major part of its diet consists of fish, but since it is a large opportunistic hunter it will happily gulp down other animals as well. Arapaimas prefer to hunt close to the surface since they need to breathe oxygen from the air. This does however not prevent the Arapaima from occasionally diving very far down. The fact that this fish needs to breathe air from the atmosphere every 10-20 minutes must of course be taken into consideration if you intend to keep an Arapaima in captivity. The aquarium must be arranged in a way that makes access to fresh air possible. Arapaima is found in various habitats in the Amazon River Basin which means that you can have some freedom when you decorate its aquarium. You will find Arapaima in the Amazon River, in the tributaries and in the floodplain lakes. It lives in white water as well as clear water, and the fact that it breaths oxygen from the atmosphere makes it possible for this fish to live in oxygen depleted swampy waters as well.















credits to: markus

Arowana

Arowana



Arowanas are freshwater bony fish of the family Osteoglossidae, sometimes known as "bonytongues". In this family of fishes, the head is bony and the elongate body is covered by large, heavy scales, with a mosaic pattern of canals. The dorsal and the anal fins have soft rays and are long based, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small. The name "bonytongues" is derived from a toothed bone on the floor of the mouth, the "tongue", equipped with teeth that bite against teeth on the roof of the mouth. The fish can obtain oxygen from air by sucking it into the swim bladder, which is lined with capillaries like lung tissue. The arapaima is an "obligatory air breather"

Classification and distribution

Osteoglossids are basal (primitive) fish from the lower Tertiary and are placed in the actinopterygiid order Osteoglossiformes. There are ten described living species: three from South America, one from Africa, four from Asia, and the remaining two from Australia.
Osteoglossidae is the only exclusively freshwater fish family found on both sides of the Wallace Line.This may be explained by the fact that Asian arowanas (S. formosus) diverged from the Australian Scleropages, S. jardinii and S. leichardti, about 140 million years ago, making it likely that Asian arowanas were carried to Asia on the Indian subcontinent.

Behavior

Osteoglossids are carnivorous, often being specialized surface feeders. They are excellent jumpers; it has been reported that Osteoglossum species have been seen leaping more than 6 feet (almost 2 meters) from the water surface to pick off insects and birds from overhanging branches in South America, hence the nickname "water monkeys". Arowanas have been rumored to capture prey as large as low flying bats and small birds. All species are large, and the arapaima is one of the world's largest freshwater fish, at 2.5 metres (8.2 ft) in length.Arowana typically grow to around 3 to 4 feet in captivity.

Several species of osteoglossid exhibit extensive parental care. They build nests and protect the young after they hatch. Some species are mouthbrooders, the parents holding sometimes hundreds of eggs in their mouths. The young may make several tentative trips outside the parent's mouth to investigate the surroundings before leaving permanently.

In the aquarium
Arowanas tend to merge in groups of five to eight; any fewer may show an excess of dominance and aggression. Some compatible fish often partnered with this fish are clown knifefish, pacu, oscars, plecostomus, jaguar cichlids, green terrors, gar and any other semi-aggressive fish that cannot fit in the arowana's mouth.

Australian species are best kept singly in aquaria.

Folklore

For the Chinese and those of related cultures, the dragon is a symbol of good luck and prosperity. In the eyes of the Chinese, the dragon fish has the appearance and majesty of the Chinese Dragon, especially the large scales and barbels.

Arowanas are also used for feng shui to bring good luck. As per the feng shui belief Arowanas are believed to possess capabilities to distinguish between an enemy and a well-wisher. It is believed that if the arowana in the aquarium shows aggression toward the visitor to house, he is an enemy; and if the fish remains calm, the visitor is a well-wisher.

Species

The family contains two subfamilies, Heterotidinae and Osteoglossinae, with all but two of the ten extant species being members of the latter. Species are given with one or more prominent common names.

Family Osteoglossidae

Subfamily Heterotidinae
o Genus Arapaima
Arapaima or pirarucu, Arapaima gigas (Cuvier, 1829)

o Genus Heterotis
African arowana, Heterotis niloticus (Cuvier, 1829)

Subfamily Osteoglossinae
o Genus Osteoglossum (Cuvier, 1829)
Silver arowana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum (Cuvier, 1829)
Black arowana, Osteoglossum ferreirai Kanazawa, 1966

o Genus Scleropages
Red-tailed golden arowana Scleropages aureus (Pouyad, Sudarto & Teugels, 2003)
Green arowana or gold crossback arowana, Scleropages formosus (Schlegel & Müller, 1844)
Gulf saratoga, red saratoga or northern spotted barramundi, Scleropages jardinii ‡ (Saville-Kent, 1892)
Red arowana, super red arowana, or chili red arowana, Scleropages legendrei (Pouyad, Sudarto & Teugels, 2003)
Saratoga, silver saratoga or spotted barramundi, Scleropages leichardti ‡ Günther, 1864
Silver Asian arowana, Scleropages macrocephalus (Pouyad, Sudarto & Teugels, 2003)

‡This species is one of two sometimes called the Australian arowana or Australian bonytongue.
A genetic study shows that the lineage leading to the arapaima and African arowana diverged about 220 million years ago, during the Late Triassic; the lineage leading to the silver and black arowanas of South America diverged about 170 million years ago, during the Middle Jurassic. The lineage leading to the Australian arowanas diverged from that leading to the Asian arowanas about 140 million years ago, during the Early Cretaceous.
Fossil record

At least five extinct genera, known only from fossils, are classified as Osteoglossids; these date back at least as far as the Late Cretaceous. Other fossils from as far back as the Late Jurassic or Early Cretaceous are widely considered to belong to the arowana superorder Osteoglossomorpha. Osteoglossomorph fossils have been found on all continents except Antarctica.
 
credits to: pep9.nstars.org

Flowerhorns (Lou han)

The history of the Flowerhorn cichlid

The Flowerhorn chichlid is a result of hybridisation between different South American chichlids. The Flowerhorn was developed in Malaysia during the second half of the 1990s, and exactly which South American cichlids that was used and in which combinations is still a secret. This secrecy has of caused a lot of speculation and a number of more or less reasonable theories have been put forth. One of the more far-fetched theories suggests that the Flowerhorn cichlid was artificially created in a Malaysian genetics laboratory by combining genes from a Goldfish with genes from the Trimac cichlid (Amhilophous Trimaculatus). A more reasonable suggestion is that the Flowerhorn cichlid is the result of crossing many different types of South American cichlids with each other, and that different forms of Flowerhorn cichlids can steam from different South American cichlids. The most plausible ancestry is crossings between the Trimac cichlid and other South American cichlids such as Midas cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellum), Red Devil cichlid (Amphilophus labiatum) and Redheaded cichlid (Vieja synspila).

The look of the Flowerhorn cichlids available in fish stores today is however not just the result of selective breeding. You can affect the appearance of a Flowerhorn cichlid by adjusting environmental factors such as the water chemistry in the aquarium. The food you feed your Flowerhorn cichlid can also change its look. The single most important factor behind the look of the fish is however the genetic makeup formed by selective breeding.

The Flowerhorn has been criticised as an unnatural and dangerous hybrid, produced by money-hungry breeders just to make money. Others have been impressed by the hard work that is evidently behind the creation of the Flowerhorn Cichlid. A lot of the South American cichlids mentioned above will occasionally interbreed in the wild as well, but there is no doubt that the Flowerhorn cichlid has been deliberately produced by breeders. The Flowerhorn cichlids are not the result of random cross breeding. Some people view the Flowerhorn as a purely man-made creation while others compare the hybrid to all the other animal variants that have been refined by humans during centuries of selective breeding.

What to think about when buying a Flowerhorn cichlid

When you look for a suitable Flowerhorn cichlid to buy, you should consider the same facts as you do with any type of cichlid. Make sure that the fish store is well kept and that all the fish look as if they are well cared for. Also check the specific individual that you are interested in. The Flowerhorn cichlid should look healthy and happy. Do not buy a Flowerhorn that seems to be stressed in the aquarium. One good test is to see whether the Flowerhorn eats or not, since poor appetite is a very bad sign in a Flowerhorn cichlid. A Flowerhorn that won’t accept food when offered is probably ill or extremely stressed. When you bring your new Flowerhorn cichlid home, remember to give it plenty of time to adapt before you release it into its new environment.

One large question when it comes to buying a Flowerhorn cichlid is if you want to buy a young Flowerhorn or a mature one. The young Flowerhorn cichlids are much cheaper than the mature ones, since it is impossible to tell which colour pattern a young Flowerhorn cichlid will display when it gets older. If you want to keep your Flowerhorn cichlid from the beginning and watch it develop, it will require a much smaller investment. On the other hand, if you buy an adult Flowerhorn cichlid you know what you get. A lot of people believe that Flowerhorn cichlids with certain colour patterns provide great Feng Shui to the house where they are kept. If you want to own a Flowerhorn cichlid with a very special pattern for this purpose, you need to buy an adult one. If you are on a restricted budget you can of course gamble and buy several young specimens, hoping that at least one of them turn out to be a premium specimen with the right colour pattern.

Adult Flowerhorn cichlids with very desirable patterns are extremely costly. High quality Flowerhorn cichlids with markings similar to Chinese letters have been sold for several hundred thousand dollars. There has been a large hype concerning the Flowerhorn cichlids ever since they were developed, and Flowerhorn cichlids have been traded like stocks since their value can increase as the develop. Today the hype seems to have cooled down a bit and a lot of people have lost considerable amounts of money during this process. Premium Flowerhorn cichlids with a well developed hump and desirable markings are however still very expensive.

How to care for a Flowerhorn cichlid

The Flowerhorn cichlid is considered quite easy to take care of and do not require a lot of pampering from its keeper. The first thing you need to do is of course to set up an aquarium suitable for a Flowerhorn cichlid. Your Flowerhorn will require a large aquarium to do well, since this fish grows quite big and have an aggressive temperament. If you use plants to decorate the aquarium, they might be destroyed by the Flowerhorn cichlid, and plants are not necessary in an aquarium set up for a Flowerhorn cichlid. You should however decorate the aquarium in a way that creates natural territorial borders, since the Flowerhorn cichlid is a territorial and aggressive fish. You can of course keep the Flowerhorn cichlid alone, but if you want to have more than one fish in the aquarium other big aggressive cichlids from South America is the best choice. The Flowerhorn cichlid is a tough fish and can tolerate most water conditions, but it will do best in an aquarium where the pH is neutral or slightly basic. A water temperature around 28º C is recommended.

The Flowerhorn cichlid is a happy eater and you will not have a hard time trying to make it accept food. Its metabolism and feeding habits are similar to that of the other South American cichlids, and your Flowerhorn cichlid will need a lot of energy and nutrients to stay healthy and develop in a good way. It is actually quite hard to over-feed a Flowerhorn cichlid. Your Flowerhorn cichlid will accept most types of food, and pellets are a good base. This base should be supplemented with plenty of worms, crabs, shrimp, or similar types of meaty foods. Feeding two or tree times a day is optimal.

Since the Flowerhorn cichlid eats a lot, it will also produce a lot of waste products which pollutes the water. Frequent water changes must therefore be performed. Changing 20 percent of the water twice a week is a good rule of thumb. If you can only make one change a week, you should change around 25 percent of the water. You can lower the risk of poor water quality by avoiding food types known to pollute the water a lot.

Luck and Feng Shui

According to an Asian belief system called Feng Shui, good luck and harmony can be caused by Flowerhorn cichlids if they display the right colour markings. The Flowerhorn is not the only fish believed to be capable of this, and fish species such as the Arowana have been kept by Asians for a long time to ensure harmony and happiness. The Arowana is believed to bring luck since it resembles dragons from Chinese mythology. Compared to the dragons in European mythology, the Chinese dragon is associated with much more positive abilities. The Flowerhorn cichlid does not resemble a dragon; instead its hump makes it look somewhat like the Chinese God of Longevity. If the hump of your Flowerhorn cichlid grows large, so will your luck. The good luck brought by Flowerhorn cichlids is believed to affect all areas of life.

The markings of the Flowerhorn cichlid are also very important from a Feng Shui point of view. If the marking resemble a desirable Chinese letter, the Flowerhorn cichlid becomes very valuable. A woman who won 1 million dollars at the lottery claimed that she had played on the number displayed on her Flowerhorn cichlid, and circulating stories like this will of course increase the Flowerhorn hype. Some Flowerhorn cichlids display the Chinese sign for “luck” on their bodies, and these individuals are of course extremely rare and extremely expensive.

Breeding Flowerhorn cichlids

Making your Flowerhorn cichlids breed in the aquarium requires basically the same type of preparations and care that you would give Trimac cichlids or other similar South American cichlids. Keep the potential parents in a very large aquarium, and try to keep them from killing each other. Flowerhorn parents guard the eggs as well as the fry, and the fry is fairly easy to take care off. Even if you start out with prime specimens as parents, the offspring will often turn out to be a disappointment if it is certain colour patterns etcetera that you are looking for. You need to know quite a lot about the different strains and lines to successfully breed Flowerhorn cichlids. There is of course always the chance of getting lucky and producing great specimens even without this knowledge.

Flowerhorn critics

The Flowerhorn cichlid has been subjected to a lot of criticism. Some people have disliked the fact that it is an artificially created hybrid, while others have criticized not the fish per se, but the huge financial hype that was created around it. Critics claim that the Flowerhorn cichlid was created only to make money from, and that the hype is a result of excellent PR. This might very well be true, but a lot of aquarists love the Flowerhorn cichlid regardless of why it was created. A true fact is that the Flowerhorn cichlids were treated more like stocks than animals during the peak of the hype, and that people lost considerable amounts of money when the Flowerhorn bubble burst and the market cooled down.

Many people feel that man should avoid creating new hybrids. Some critics have religious motives behind their conviction, and argue that animals should be created by God, not by humans. Others point to possible environmental problems that could occur if the natural fauna was contaminated and disturbed by unnatural hybrids.

Concerned voices have also claimed that the presence of fish hybrids make it close to impossible to identify pure breed specimens in fish stores, since hybrids are frequently mislabelled and sold under the wrong name. Those in favour of the Flowerhorn cichlid have responded that this is not a problem caused by the Flowerhorn or any other hybrid, this is a problem caused by irresponsible store keepers.

As mentioned above, hybrids like the Flowerhorn might cause severe ecological problems if they are released into the wild. Animals released into environments that are not used to their presence can often cause a lot of problems, regardless of whether they are hybrids or just animals from some other part of the world. We have already seen the effects of rabbits in Australia, Water hyacinth in Africa etcetera. Regardless of wish type of fish you keep, hybrid or not, you should never ever release it into the wild!

credits to: aquaticcommunity.com

Honey Gourami

Honey Gourami
Alternative Name(s):
Scientific Name(s): Trichogaster chuna, Colisa chuna
Category: Tropical
Difficulty:
Maximum Size: 5cms
Minimum Tank Volume: 60 litres
Minimum Tank Size: 24" x 12" x12"
Water Temperature Range: 22-27°C
Water pH Range: 6.0-7.5
Water Hardness Range: 5-15 dGH






General Information: The Honey Gourami, the smallest Gourami is a member of the Belontiidae family originating in India and Bangladesh. It is a somewhat timid fish, less aggressive and territorial than the similar Dwarf Gourami and will spend much of its time in the mid and top water areas among floating plants, occasionally taking air from the surface. Honey Gourami come in an array of colours, standard colour is a gold/honey colour. Photo is of the Red Robin variety.
Tank Requirements: The tank should be well-planted and floating plants are greatly appreciated. Minimal water movement. A gap between the water surface and any condensation tray is necessary to allow the Honey Gourami to surface and breathe air occasionally
Diet Requirements: Honey Gourami aren't fussy eaters and will take good quality flake foods and algae wafers as well as small live and frozen foods which they are very fond of and occasional green vegetables.
Compatibility: Honey Gourami combine well with other small, peaceful community fish, but should not be mixed with other Gourami, Betta Splendens or too many additional top-dwelling fish.
Recommendations: Keep as a pair or as a small group with one male and two or three females. Not advisable to keep more than one male per tank unless large due to aggression between males when breeding.
Common Problems: Fortunately does not seem to suffer from Iridovirus which affects Dwarf Gourami, but there have been issues with dyed Honey Gourami from the Far East and associated health problems.
Similar Species: Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia)
Sexing: Males smaller & more colourful, turning vibrant orange with the front of the body deep blue/black in breeding condition. Females have a brown horizontal stripe which darkens when ready to breed.
Breeding: Relatively easy. Bubble nest breeder. Place pair in a small tank with shallow water, sponge filter and floating plants. Remove female after spawning and male after he has placed eggs in nest.
credits to: http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk

Black Neon Tetra



The Black Neon Tetras are happiest in a school. How many fish make a school?... the standard answer is 7. This fish has a similar appearance to the Neon Tetra with its horizontal stripe that seems to glow. But even though they are called the 'Black Neon Tetra', they are a distinctly different fish than the Neon Tetra. They can readily be identified, as they have an enamel-white to greenish neon stripe contrasted with a rich velvety black color below it.
   Being a very peaceful fish, the Black Neon Tetra makes a very good addition to a community aquarium. They appreciate subdued lighting and will readily form schools.

Distribution:    The Black Neon Tetra was described by Géry in 1961. They are found in South America, the Paraguay River basin; Rio Taquari, Pantanal of Mato Grosso do Sul, and Brazil. Black Neon Tetras are now generally all captive-bred.
Status:    The species is not listed on the IUCN Red List.
Description:    The Black Neon Tetra is a small more slim-bodied species of tetra. It is similar in appearance to the Neon Tetra with its horizontal stripe that seems to glow, but is a distinctly different fish. They can readily be identified, as they have an enamel-white to greenish neon stripe contrasted with a rich velvety black color below it.
Size - Weight:    These fish get up to 1.5 inches (4 cm).
Care and feeding:    Since they are omnivorous the Black Neon Tetra will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake foods. To keep a good balance give them a high quality flake food everyday. Feed brine shrimp (either live or frozen) or blood worms as a treat.

Water Region: Top, Middle, Bottom: These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.
Acceptable Water Conditions:    Black Neon Tetras are somewhat more demanding than the Neon Tetra and should have soft, peat-filtered water. These fish prefer some plant cover and a darker gravel.
   Hardness: 6-15° dGH
   Ph: 5.5 to 7.5
   Temp: 73-81° F (23-27° C)
Social Behaviors:    The Black Neon Tetra is ideal for a community aquarium with other peaceful fish.
Sexual Differences: The female has a more rounded stomach (not much to go on!).
Breeding/Reproduction:    Suggested breeding conditions: pH 6.0, 4° dGH, 80° F. The Black Neon Tetras are egg layers. They freely spawn in schools or in pairs. See the description of how to breed these fish in Breeding Freshwater Fish.
Availability:    The Black Neon Tetra is readily available and inexpensive.

credits to:animal-world.com

Neon Tetra

Neon Tetra
Alternative Name(s):
Scientific Name(s): Paracheirodon innesi
Category: Tropical
Difficulty:
Maximum Size: 4cms
Minimum Tank Volume: 65 litres
Minimum Tank Size: 24"
Water Temperature Range: 21-29°C
Water pH Range: 5.0-7.0
Water Hardness Range: 1-7 dGH






General Information: The Neon Tetra has a dark olive-green back over a silver-white abdomen. The fish is characterized by an iridescent blue horizontal stripe along each side of the fish from its nose to the base of the adipose fin, and an iridescent red stripe that begins at the middle of the body and extends posteriorly to the base of the caudal fin. During the night, the colour disappears as the fish rests, it reactivates once it becomes active in the morning.
Tank Requirements: See Minimum Tank Volume and Minimum Tank Size above
Diet Requirements: Neon tetras are omnivores and will accept most flake foods, but should also have some small foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex, and micro pellet food to supplement their diet. A tropical sinking pellet is ideal as most brands of these include natural color enhancers that really bring out the colour in neon tetras.
Compatibility: Fish that mix well in an aquarium are other types of tetras, such as the rummy-nose tetra, cardinal tetra, and glowlight tetra, and other community fish that live well in an ideal Tetra water condition. Mid-level feeders, they are best kept in schools of six to eight min or more if possible, for the "shoaling" effect when they move around the tank. They shoal naturally in the wild and are thus happier, more brightly colored, and more active when kept as a shoal as opposed to singly.
Recommendations: Neons are best kept in a densely planted tank with subdued light and an ideal temperature of 24-26°C to resemble their native Amazon environment.
Common Problems: Unfortunately, neon tetras are occasionally afflicted by the so-called "Neon Tetra Disease" (NTD) or Pleistophora which is usually fatal to the fish, and currently without a cure. This sporozoan disease is caused by Pleistophora hyphessobryconis.Note that there is a so-called "false neon disease", which is bacterial, and shows very similar symptoms. It is impossible for the home aquarist to determine for certain the difference between NTD and false NTD on the basis of visible symptoms alone, without laboratory backup. This disease has also been confused with Columnaris (mouth rot, mouth fungus, 'flex').
Similar Species: Green neon tetra, Black neon tetra, Cardinal tetra
Sexing: The male is slender, and the blue line is straighter. The female is rounder, producing a bent blue line. Some say that the females look plumper when viewed from above but this is disputed. However, the 'straightness' of the line and the plumpness of the female might occasionally be due to the eggs she is carrying.
Breeding: To breed Neon Tetras, place a pair of the species in a breeding tank without any light, and gradually increase the lighting until spawning occurs. Other inducers include mosquito larvae and a hardness of less than 4 degrees.


credits to: http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk

Red Cherry Shrimps Caresheet

Scientific Name:
Neocaridina heteropoda
Other Scientific Names:
Neocaridina denticulata sinensis
Common Name:
Red Cherry Shrimp
Other Common Names:
Cherry Shrimp, Cherry Red Shrimp, RCS
Origin:
Taiwan




PH Range: 6.2 - 8.0
Temperature Range: 65 - 85
Hardness Range:3 - 15 dkh
Life Span: 1 - 2 years
Gestation Period: 30 days
Ideal pH: 7.2
Ideal Temperature: 75
Ideal Hardness: 8 dkh
Size: 0.5" - 1"
Diet: Omnivore

Red Cherry Shrimp History

The Red Cherry Shrimp is the red color variation of the wild Neocaridina heteropoda. This color variation was originally bred in Germany and started to appear in The United States in the late 1990's

Red Cherry Shrimp Care

The Cherry Red Shrimp is an undemanding shrimp in its care requirements. They should be kept in a well established aquarium with no predators. The most important factor for water parameter is stability and as long as none of the water parameters are in the extremes Red Cherry Shrimp should be happy and healthy. Want to know how to get even redder red shrimps?

Red Cherry Shrimp Diet

The Red Cherry Shrimp is an Omnivore. They are decent algae eaters and if sufficient algae is not present foods intended for aquarium fish and invertebrates can be used to supplement their diet. Another great supplement is blanched (boiled until soft) vegetables

Red Cherry Shrimp Breeding

If a male and a female are present in a well cared for aquarium, the Cherry Shrimp will breed. Females are larger and much more colorful, males are smaller and display a clear coloration with red spots. When the female is mature she will often times display a saddle (as seen in the insert). The saddle is the eggs developing in the females ovaries.

Red Cherry Shrimp Behavior

Red Cherry Shrimp a very non-aggressive. They spend most of the day grazing on plants, gravel and any other tank decorations for algae and other types of foods. Red Cherry Shrimp will get along very will with any other type of dwarf shrimp that is non-aggressive. When the Red Cherry Shrimp is kept in an aquarium that has no predators they are very active and only hide after molting (shedding exoskeleton to enable growth).

Special Notes

As with all aquatic invertebrates it is important to make sure copper does not get into the aquarium. Copper is toxic to all Dwarf Shrimp. Many medications contain elevated levels of copper, so it is recommended not to medicate an aquarium with Dwarf Shrimp in it.

credits to: http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/shrimp/red-cherry-shrimp.php

Crystal Red Shrimp Caresheet



Common name: Crystal Red Shrimp, Red bee shrimp

Scientific name: Caridina cf. cantonensi "Crystal Red"

Size: 1 – 1.5 inch / 2.5-3.5cm

Temperature: 70°F-78°F / 21- 26°C

General info
The crystal red shrimp does not appear in the wild. It is a line bred version of the bumble bee shrimp. Mr. Hisayasu Suzuki of Japan discovered a red version of bumble bee shrimps among the offspring of black bumble bee shrimps. Only a few shrimps displayed this red color and he line bred them to create the shrimp we know today. He then trademarked the name crystal red shrimp to be used for this mutation. The shrimp quickly became popular worldwide.

The strain has since been further refined by different breeders and there are different qualities/classes of crystal red shrimp. These are SS, S, A, B, and C. SS shrimps have very defined red stripes on a pure white body while C class shrimps have random red stripes/blotches on a transparent body. The classes in between are different stages between SS and C. S is for example are red on an almost pure white body that has some transparent areas and not very defined stripes.

Crystal red shrimps are more sensitive than most other shrimps. This is believed to be due to very small genetic variation present in these shrimps (due to having originated from only a few shrimps). Special care must be taken when transporting and moving these sensitive shrimps and this is one of the reasons behind their high price.

A healthy crystal red shrimp is active. If your shrimps are less active than usually you should check your water values/quality.

Aquarium and Care
Crystal red shrimp are best kept in a planted aquarium In a planted aquarium, the shrimp can find places to hide and will have the opportunity to always find something to eat. The shrimps will usually leave healthy plants alone and eat only debris and algae, because most plants are not soft enough for them to eat even if they tried. They do however sometimes snack on moss and riccia. Open areas in the aquarium are ok but not necessary. Avoid strong filtration.

Crystal red shrimp can be kept with most types of small and friendly fish that have the same water preferences as the crystal red shrimp. This shrimp needs the aquarium (or at least a part of it) to be dark for at least a few hours per night. Do not use water preparation chemicals or parasite killers in a tank containing crystal red shrimp since it may kill them. Change water in your tank at least once a week. Changing 25-35% of the water each week is ideal and you should only use dechlorinated water. Examples of dechlorinators are Amquel+ and Novaqua.

The water temperature is best kept between 70°F-78°F / 21- 26°C and the pH between 6.2 - 7.2. The shrimps show better color in the lower part of that temperature span. It is important to make sure that the pH-value does not drop too low. Too acidic water is dangerous for shrimps as it weakens their alkaline shells. Too acidic water can create micro pits in the shell of the shrimp and this makes the shrimp more susceptible to disease. This is the reason why shrimps kept in alkaline water have shinier shells than shrimps kept in acidic water. Make sure to maintain nitrite, nitrate and ammonia levels as close to zero as possible.

Feeding crystal red shrimp
They need a varied diet containing a lot of vegetable matter but some meaty food is also good. They can for instance be fed sinking algae wafers and flake food that sinks to the bottom. It is important to frequently feed these shrimp as they don't do well if they have to go part of the day hungry. It is also a good idea to have some moss and riccia in the tank. The shrimps are able to eat these plants and that gives them a permanent food source and makes sure they never have to go hungry.

Always leave the moulted shells of your shrimps in the tank so they can eat them and get the calcium back.

Crystal red shrimp sexing
They are hard to sex and crystal red shrimp sexing is never 100% sure. The males are thinner the tail section is larger on fully grown females than on males.

Breeding crystal red shrimp
Crystal red shrimp can be bred in much the same way as cherry shrimp and common bumble bee shrimp but are more sensitive and pickier in regards to water quality. Breeding this shrimp species requires a larger aquarium than many other small shrimp species. I recommend at least 20 gallon since they are hard to trigger to breed in tanks smaller than that. The temperature is best kept between 70°F-74°F / 21- 23°C. They can be bred at higher temperatures as well but they breed more frequently and the spawnings result in more surviving fry at lower temperatures. Avoid using too hard or too soft water when you breed crystal red shrimp. The pH-value is not very important as long as extremes are avoided. A pH of 7 usually gives a good result. Keep near perfect water quality if you want to breed Crystal red shrimp.

Plants are not needed to breed crystal red shrimp but are still recommended since they make these shrimps easier to breed and provide the shrimp with a more stable access to food. I have talked about this earlier. Keep the light on in the tank 10-12 hours a day. Too much light stresses them and too little isn't good either.

It is very important to feed a good varied diet if you want to breed Crystal red shrimp.
If you meet these needs your Crystal red shrimps will most likely breed. The eggs hatch into fully developed tiny shrimp. The eggs take longer than most shrimp eggs to hatch. The young grows slow and have a higher mortality rate than most other small freshwater shrimps.

Credits to: aquaticcommunity.com

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Short-tailed Opossum

Short-tailed Opossum (STO)


Credits to R-Zu-2-U

Short-tailed Opossums (Monodelphis domestica) are small rat-like marsupials that are found in South America. There are 17 species of short-tailed Opossums in two sub-genera. The one we will deal with in this text is the most popular one found as an exotic animal in the United States, the Domestica. They are mainly localized in Brazil and adjoining countries. These little animals are frequently found in human dwellings and are welcomed there by the residents because of their voracious appetite for insects and rodents. They are also quite capable of destroying scorpions and spiders.

The short-tailed Opossum of the species Domestica is normally gray to brown in color with soft, thick luxurious fur. The underside is generally lighter in color. The males usually tend to have a thicker hair coat than the females. There are some variations in color and these animals seem to frequently have color mutations in the form of tans, mixed gray and tan and buff/gray. Some individuals also have white markings on the feet and throat. Their tails are naked but not scaled as in some rodents. A full-grown adult will weigh 3-4 ounces, and is 4 to 6 inches in body length with a tail about 2/3 as long as the body or occasionally as long as the body. The tail is prehensile and can not only be used as a means of balance when climbing and anchoring the animal to a tree branch, but it can also be used as another hand to carry nesting materials. Their muzzles are pointed and rather rat-like. Their dentition is i5/4, c1/1, p3/3, m4/4 x 2 for a total of 50 teeth.

Their teeth are very sharp. Their ears are large and thin-skinned. They have five digits on each foot with the large toe on the hind foot, considerably larger and without a claw. All the rest of the toes have claws. Their rear legs are longer than the front legs. The females do not have the expected marsupial pouch, but they do have a circle of nipples hidden by their fur on the abdomen. These nipples are not visible unless the female is lactating, about to give birth or the fur is separated. Males have the usual marsupial placement of testicles, between the navel and the (censored). The testicles are fur covered. The female has a genital opening next to the anus which is not easily visible.

The short-tailed Opossum matures about 4-5 months and is ready to start a family. The female is often aggressive to any male unless she is receptive for breeding. Breeding can take place during any time of the year. Estrus lasts 3-12 days, cycling every 2-4 weeks. This Opossum can have up to four litters a year. After a brief gestation of about 2 weeks, the offspring are born and crawl to the teats on the female's abdomen. The babies born can number up to 16 but the only ones that can survive are those that attach to the teats. If the female has 12 nipples, only twelve can survive. The offspring attach to the nipple (which swells in the baby's mouth) and remain on the female's abdomen for over 30 days. If the baby is detached during this time, it will perish because the nipple stays enlarged and the baby is unable to re-attach. The babies continue to nurse for some time and are weaned at 6-8 weeks. According to Walkers' Mammals of the World, the females can breed up to 28 months and the males to 39 months.

Short-tailed Opossums can become loving and gentle pets if handled from a young age. Even some adults adapt readily to handling. These animals can be aggressive to each other after puberty, so if several animals are to be kept together, there must be in a large enclosure with several nest boxes and their behavior must be closely monitored. They may damage each other's ears and in some instances have even killed each other. They are not communal animals in the wild or in captivity. The mother carries her babies on her abdomen until about 30 days of age at which time the babies begin to climb and ride on her back. They do this until the poor little lady is carrying babies that weigh a collective total of more than she does.

Housing for a short-tailed Opossum as a pet might be quite different than for one in a breeding situation. A pet might be kept in an aquarium with a lid that has clamps to hold it down or a wire cage with small openings between the wires. These animals are adept at finding THE only way out of an enclosure so that they can relocate somewhere in your house. Some breeders keep them in Rubbermaid( blanket containers with plenty of vent holes drilled in them. Bedding should be either shavings or corn cob bedding. They are relatively neat with their toilet habits and use one portion of their enclosure for feces and urine which can be easily cleaned. They need a nest box, branches for climbing and exercising and even a small hamster exercise wheel. Some material for building a nest such as cotton batting and/or shredded paper will be appreciated and used. They are adept at weaving and fluffing a tiny amount into a wonderful, warm nest.

A water bottle should be provided. Try both the one with the glass tube and the steel ball bearing. Some of these Opossums have trouble obtaining water when licking the large stainless steel ball bearings so you may need to use a bottle with a small spout. There are several schools of thought about diets when raising these animals. One breeder, a naturalist, feeds meal worms, crickets, fruit and bread. Another, interested in a non-live, pelleted diet uses fox pellets (reproduction) by Milk Specialties Co. Another uses Exotic Canine( diet and Zoo "A" Diet( by Purina Mills. Some breeders have told me they mix kitten food in with the adult food when the babies are beginning to show interest in solid food, because it is tiny and easy for the weanlings to eat. Most give a bit of fruit every day or every other day to each animal that is on dry food. This is welcomed and relished. It is absolutely imperative that the water dispenser is checked often so the animals so not become dehydrated in case there is an equipment failure.

If a baby detaches from the mother's teat too early, it probably will not be possible to save it. If you must raise an older baby that is not yet weaned, try to foster it to another mom with babies or possibly a mother rat. Once the babies have been weaned by the mother, they have already made great progress eating the same food she eats. When weaning babies, be sure that your cage is large enough so they have a place to escape from each other in case one or more become aggressive. Several nest boxes, branches, and hanging ropes will give them a lot to explore and play with. A small hamster wheel might give them another activity to redirect any hostility. Also include some shredded paper to get them interested in building nests.

Hamsters

From wikipedia:

Hamsters are rodents belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. The subfamily contains about 25 species, classified in six or seven genera.[1]
Hamsters are crepuscular or nocturnal animals which burrow underground in the daylight to avoid being caught by predators. Their diet includes a variety of foods, including dried food, berries, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables. In the wild they feed primarily on seeds, fruits and greens, and will occasionally eat burrowing insects.[2] They have an elongated pouch on each side of their heads that extend to their shoulders, which they stuff full of food to be stored, brought back to the colony or to be eaten later.
Although the Golden Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus) was first described scientifically in 1839, it was not until 1930 that researchers were able to successfully breed and domesticate hamsters.[3] Pet Golden Hamsters are descended from hamsters first found and captured in Syria by zoologist Israel Aharoni.[4]
Hamster behavior can vary depending on their environment, genetics, and interaction with people. Because they are easy to breed in captivity, hamsters are often used as lab animals in more economically developed countries. Hamsters have also become established as popular small house pets[3]. Hamsters are sometimes accepted even in areas where other rodents are disliked, and their stereotypically solitary nature can reduce the risk of excessive litters developing in households.

Choosing a Hamster

When you're thinking of getting a hamster, keep these things in mind:

*Try to buy your hamster in the evening when it is more active. Earlier in the day, most of the hamsters will be asleep.

*It is important to choose a healthy hamster. So, remember:

*The hamster's body should be smooth and well-rounded.

*Its coat should be clean, particularly on the underside of its body. There should be no bare patches.

*Its ears should be clean on the inside, and if you're buying a young hamster, covered with hair on the outside.

*The hamster's eyes should be bright and clean.

*You will probably want to buy your hamster when it is between four and seven weeks old because hamsters are easier to tame when they're young.

*Male and female hamsters are equally good tempered and agreeable.

*You can keep two hamsters in one cage depending on what kind of hamster you want to get. Dzungarian Dwarf hamsters, short dwarf hamsters, and Russian hamsters are all supposed to be pretty social, so you can keep two of one of those kinds together. But it is best if they are litter mates, have been together since birth, and are of the same sex. All other kinds of hamsters need to be kept separately because hamsters are territorial.

*Ask the pet dealer what food the hamster has been eating, so you can give it the same. If you want to feed it something different, remember to change to other foods gradually.

*The pet store will give you a cardboard box to take your hamster home in. But if your ride home lasts more than two hours the hamster may gnaw its way out. So you can take along a small plastic box. It must close securely and have air holes. Add bedding and a small amountof food to the bottom.

Housing

*Before you bring your hammy home, wash its cage with a few drops of mild disinfectant and water. Rinse it out, and dry it well.

*Cover the cage floor with lots of bedding and nesting material. Bedding should be clean, dry, non-toxic, and absorbent. The most popular bedding choice is wood shavings. You need to avoid cedar shavings, since this smelly wood can be too intense for small rodents. Instead go for pine or aspen shavings. (These must be shavings that are produced specifically for the care of small animals.) Also do not use any cotton wool or fluffy bedding cotton material because it can be dangerous for a hamster if eaten. Nesting material can consist of hay, white paper, and cardboard. Put a little in the nesting box to encourage your hamster to make its nest there.

*Lastly, put some food in the cage and set up the water bottle. Add some wood chews, the exercise wheel, and maybe a toilet paper roll for your hamster to play in.

*When you get home, let your hamster settle into its cage as soon as possible. Your hammy may be nervous after the journey, so instead of picking it up to put it in the cage, place its carrying box open on the floor of the cage, and let it come out when it is ready.

*Though you would probably like to start the taming process immediately, you need to leave your hamster alone for the first couple of days (except to feed it, of course). Remember that changing homes was probably a stressful experience for it so it is best to let it explore its new cage.

*Make sure the cage isn't too close to a window that gets the hot afternoon sun, or by a radiator, or in a draft.

*The cage should obviously be out of the reach of cats if you have them. Although a cat probably couldn't get in, it could still frighten your hammy.

*You will have to clean out the cage once a week. After you've cleaned it out replace the food that your hamster stored that won't get moldy. Once a month, clean out the whole cage and wash everything with soapy water and a few drops of mild disinfectant. Rinse and dry well before adding new bedding.

Feeding

Hamsters like to eat seeds, grains and nuts, vegetables, and a little fruit.

*Feed your hamster once a day, in the late afternoon or evening. Give a small handful of hamster mix and a small handful of vegetables.

*If any is left uneaten, give less the next day. If all is eaten, try giving more, but first check to see if your hamster is hoarding in its cage.

*Give a good variety of foods, but introduce any new food gradually.

*You can buy hamster mix at a pet store,it is fortified so that it provides a hamster with a well-balanced diet of essential foods grains, seeds, and nuts.

*Both root and green vegetables should be given, always raw and washed well. Some vegetables that are good for your hammy are:

broccoli
turnips
carrots
chicory
spinach
cauliflower (outside leaves and stalk)
parsley
*cabbage
*Brussels sprouts
*lettuce (not iceberg lettuce)
* = small amounts only

*To make sure your hamster gets the vitamins it needs, you can buy vitamin drops for small animals at the pet store.

*Never leave your hamster without fresh water to drink.

*You can feed pieces of apple, pear, grape, and tomato, all in small amounts only. But remember that fruit decays quickly, so check that none is left uneaten in the cage for more than a day. Also remove any uneaten vegetables that your hamster stored so that they do not become moldy.

*If you are going on vacation for more than three days, you can take your hamster with you, or arrange for a friend to feed it. For a shorter time, it's ok to leave enough food in the cage to last until you get back. Don't forget to fill up the water bottle.

Handling

Before you handle your hamster you will need to tame it. Do not put it off, because it will be easier while your hamster is still young.
Talk to your hamster while you're taming it. It will get to know your voice.

Hamsters bite only when they are frightened. If your hamster does nip your finger, it is best to put it back in its cage and leave it alone a couple of hours so that it can calm down.

You should be able to tame your hamster in about three weeks if you follow this method. Do not rush it, or you may have to start all over again.

1. First watch your hammy for a few days to find out when it is awake and active the best time to start taming. Note its favorite foods so you can use them to overcome its fear. Now start putting food straight on the cage floor, so your hamster gets used to your hand and learns that it brings food. After a few days, leave your hand there while the hamster eats.

2. When your hamster is confident enough to eat beside your hand, put the food in the palm of your hand. It may a while before the hamster will eat from your hand without fear. When it does, you can stroke it gently with one finger along its back. Never stroke its head.

3. Next, get your hamster used to being picked up. When it is eating from your hand, cup the other hand over it, and lift it gently a little way off the ground for a few moments at a time. After a few more days, if your hammy seems happy being lifted up, you can take it right out of the cage in your cupped hands.

4. Play with it near the ground so that if you drop it or it jumps out of your hands, it doesn't have a long way to fall. Let it run from one hand to the other. Soon it will be confident enough to run along your arm.

A Lost Hammy!

Don't lose hope yet! Here are some different techniques I've heard of to use if your hamster gets lost--

*Try putting food in the cage and leave it with a door/hole open near where you think the hamster is hiding. During the night the hungry hammy might return to its cage.

*Spread some sunflower seeds in each room, counting the number you leave in each room, and then shut all the doors. (Do this at night before you go to bed) The next morning you will easily be able to tell which room your hamster is in, so this will hopefully narrow down your search. Once you know which room your hamster is in, make sure you keep that door closed. You can then use of the previously mentioned methods to recapture your hamster.

*Make a ramp with a piece of wood up to a bucket in which you have put some food. Then, make a little trail of food on the floor, up the piece of wood, and finally put enough food in the bucket so your hamster will jump on in, when he/she discover this treasure. But make sure the bucket is tall enough so your hamster can't climb out the side and escape again. Or maybe you could put butter on the sides of the bucket like suggested in the next tactic.

Health

I've received some emails concerning the question of whether or not you should bathe your hamster. The answer to this question is no. Hamsters supposedly do not have any offensive body smells because they clean themselves. If anything will start to smell it'll be its cage. So just make sure you clean out the cage at least once a week. If, for some reason, you really feel that your hamster needs some help cleaning, you can use a soft toothbrush and some lukewarm water to do this. But make sure you don't drench the hamster because then it could become sick.

Symptoms,possible cause and what to do

Sneezing, sore eyes, and runny nose - This may be an allergy, maybe to some nesting material, air freshener, or spray polish. But it also could be a cold, so keep your hamster warm, and if it's no better the next day, take it to the vet.

Fur around tail is dirty, and possibly wet - Your hamster has diarrhea, which could have been caused by eating something that did not agree with it. But this could also be the first sign of a serious illness called wet tail, so take your hamster to the vet at once.

Bare patches in the fur - This may just be old age, or the hamster may have rubbed against something and worn the fur away. But if it is scratching the bare batches, they could be caused by mites. The vet will give you something to clear them up.

Refusal to eat, a swollen cheek, and runny eyes - Your hamster has something stuck in its cheek pouch. Take it to the vet.

After a fall, or being handled too much, the hamster lies quite still, as if dead - It is in a state of shock, though it may not be seriously hurt. If you leave it in a quiet, warm place, it should recover in an hour or two. If not, take it to the vet.

Cuts,the hamster has cut itself on something sharp - Add a drop of antiseptic to warm water (boiled and allowed to cool), and bathe the cut gently. If it gets red and inflamed, take your hamster to the vet.

Chinchilla

Chinchilla


Chinchillas are crepuscular rodents, slightly larger than ground squirrels, and are native to the Andes mountains in South America. Along with their relatives, viscachas, they belong to the family Chinchillidae.

The animal (whose name literally means "little Chincha") is named after the Chincha people of the Andes, who once wore its dense, velvet-like fur.By the end of the 19th century, chinchillas had become quite rare due to hunting for their fur.Most chinchillas currently used by the fur industry for clothing and other accessories are farm-raised.

Native environment

In their native habitat, chinchillas live in burrows or crevices in rocks.They are agile jumpers and can jump up to 6 ft (1.8 m).Predators in the wild include birds of prey, skunks, felines, snakes and canines. Chinchillas have a variety of defensive tactics including spraying urine and releasing fur if bitten.In the wild, chinchillas have been observed eating plants, fruits, seeds, and small insects.This diet could irritate the digestive system of a domestic chinchilla whose diet should be primarily hay-based.

In nature, chinchillas live in social groups that resemble colonies but are properly called herds. Chinchillas can breed any time of the year. Their gestation period is 111 days, longer than most rodents. Due to this long pregnancy, chinchillas are born fully furred and with eyes open. Litters are usually small in number, predominately twins.

Chinchilla species
Comparison of Chinchilla species

There are two living species of chinchilla, Chinchilla brevicaudata and Chinchilla lanigera.There is little noticeable difference between the species except that the Chinchilla brevicaudata has a shorter tail, a thicker neck and shoulders, and shorter ears.This species is currently facing extinction.The Chinchilla lanigera species, though rare, can be found in the wild.Domestic chinchillas are thought to come from the lanigera species.

Fur industry
Chinchilla fur coat and accessories

The international trade in chinchilla fur goes back to the 16th century. The fur from chinchillas is popular in the fur trade due to its extremely soft feel, because they have about 60 hairs sprouting from each hair follicle. The color is usually very even, which makes it ideal for small garments or the lining of large garments, though some large garments can be made entirely from the fur. A single, full-length coat made from chinchilla fur may require as many as 150 pelts, as chinchillas are relatively small.This fact led to the extinction of one species, and put serious pressure on the other two. Though it is illegal to hunt wild chinchillas, the wild animals are now on the verge of becoming extinct because of the illegal hunting that continues. Domestic chinchillas are still bred for this use.

Chinchillas as pets

Chinchillas require extensive exercise and should have a large exercise wheel (over 15 in (380 mm) in diameter) with solid surfaces. Chinchilla legs and toes can easily get caught in a mesh running surface and tails can get caught in spokes. Chinchilla teeth need to be worn down as their teeth grow continually and can prevent the chinchilla from eating if they become overgrown.Wooden sticks, pumice stone and chew toys are good options, but conifer and citrus woods (like cedar or orange) should be avoided because of the high content of resins, oils and phenols that are toxic for chinchillas. Birch, willow, apple tree, manzanita or kiln-dried pine are all safe woods for chinchillas to chew.

The chinchilla lacks the ability to sweat; therefore, if temperatures get above 25°C (80°F), the chinchilla could get overheated and may suffer from heat stroke.Chinchillas dissipate heat by routing blood to their large ears, so red ears signal overheating.

Chinchillas can be found in a variety of colors including the standard gray (the only color found in nature), beige, white, ebony, and many others.They instinctively clean their fur by taking dust baths, in which they roll around in special chinchilla dust made of fine pumice. In the wild their dust is formed from fine ground volcanic rocks.The dust gets into their fur and absorbs oil and dirt.These baths are needed a few times a week.Chinchillas do not bathe in water because the dense fur prevents air-drying, retaining moisture close to the skin, which can cause fungus growth or fur rot.A wet chinchilla must be dried immediately with towels and a no-heat hair dryer. The fur is so thick that it resists parasites such as fleas.The fur also reduces loose dander, making chinchillas hypo-allergenic.

Chinchillas eat and digest desert grasses and cannot efficiently process fatty foods, high protein foods, or too many green plants. A high quality, hay-based pellet and a constant supply of loose hay will sufficiently meet all of their dietary needs.Chinchillas have very sensitive GI tracts that can be easily disrupted so it is important to maintain them on a healthy diet.Avoid chinchilla feed that includes a mixture; chinchillas may avoid the healthy high fiber pellets in favor of items like raisins and seeds. Fresh vegetables and fruit (with high moisture content) should be avoided as these can cause bloat in a chinchilla, which can be fatal. Sweets and dried fruit treats, such as raisins should be limited to one or two per day. Chinchillas also eat and drink in very small amounts, therefore, overfeeding is easy.This can lead to diarrhea, or in the long term, diabetes. Nuts should be avoided due to their high fat content.High protein foods and hay (such as alfalfa) can cause liver problems and should be limited.