Short-tailed Opossum

Short-tailed Opossum (STO)


Credits to R-Zu-2-U

Short-tailed Opossums (Monodelphis domestica) are small rat-like marsupials that are found in South America. There are 17 species of short-tailed Opossums in two sub-genera. The one we will deal with in this text is the most popular one found as an exotic animal in the United States, the Domestica. They are mainly localized in Brazil and adjoining countries. These little animals are frequently found in human dwellings and are welcomed there by the residents because of their voracious appetite for insects and rodents. They are also quite capable of destroying scorpions and spiders.

The short-tailed Opossum of the species Domestica is normally gray to brown in color with soft, thick luxurious fur. The underside is generally lighter in color. The males usually tend to have a thicker hair coat than the females. There are some variations in color and these animals seem to frequently have color mutations in the form of tans, mixed gray and tan and buff/gray. Some individuals also have white markings on the feet and throat. Their tails are naked but not scaled as in some rodents. A full-grown adult will weigh 3-4 ounces, and is 4 to 6 inches in body length with a tail about 2/3 as long as the body or occasionally as long as the body. The tail is prehensile and can not only be used as a means of balance when climbing and anchoring the animal to a tree branch, but it can also be used as another hand to carry nesting materials. Their muzzles are pointed and rather rat-like. Their dentition is i5/4, c1/1, p3/3, m4/4 x 2 for a total of 50 teeth.

Their teeth are very sharp. Their ears are large and thin-skinned. They have five digits on each foot with the large toe on the hind foot, considerably larger and without a claw. All the rest of the toes have claws. Their rear legs are longer than the front legs. The females do not have the expected marsupial pouch, but they do have a circle of nipples hidden by their fur on the abdomen. These nipples are not visible unless the female is lactating, about to give birth or the fur is separated. Males have the usual marsupial placement of testicles, between the navel and the (censored). The testicles are fur covered. The female has a genital opening next to the anus which is not easily visible.

The short-tailed Opossum matures about 4-5 months and is ready to start a family. The female is often aggressive to any male unless she is receptive for breeding. Breeding can take place during any time of the year. Estrus lasts 3-12 days, cycling every 2-4 weeks. This Opossum can have up to four litters a year. After a brief gestation of about 2 weeks, the offspring are born and crawl to the teats on the female's abdomen. The babies born can number up to 16 but the only ones that can survive are those that attach to the teats. If the female has 12 nipples, only twelve can survive. The offspring attach to the nipple (which swells in the baby's mouth) and remain on the female's abdomen for over 30 days. If the baby is detached during this time, it will perish because the nipple stays enlarged and the baby is unable to re-attach. The babies continue to nurse for some time and are weaned at 6-8 weeks. According to Walkers' Mammals of the World, the females can breed up to 28 months and the males to 39 months.

Short-tailed Opossums can become loving and gentle pets if handled from a young age. Even some adults adapt readily to handling. These animals can be aggressive to each other after puberty, so if several animals are to be kept together, there must be in a large enclosure with several nest boxes and their behavior must be closely monitored. They may damage each other's ears and in some instances have even killed each other. They are not communal animals in the wild or in captivity. The mother carries her babies on her abdomen until about 30 days of age at which time the babies begin to climb and ride on her back. They do this until the poor little lady is carrying babies that weigh a collective total of more than she does.

Housing for a short-tailed Opossum as a pet might be quite different than for one in a breeding situation. A pet might be kept in an aquarium with a lid that has clamps to hold it down or a wire cage with small openings between the wires. These animals are adept at finding THE only way out of an enclosure so that they can relocate somewhere in your house. Some breeders keep them in Rubbermaid( blanket containers with plenty of vent holes drilled in them. Bedding should be either shavings or corn cob bedding. They are relatively neat with their toilet habits and use one portion of their enclosure for feces and urine which can be easily cleaned. They need a nest box, branches for climbing and exercising and even a small hamster exercise wheel. Some material for building a nest such as cotton batting and/or shredded paper will be appreciated and used. They are adept at weaving and fluffing a tiny amount into a wonderful, warm nest.

A water bottle should be provided. Try both the one with the glass tube and the steel ball bearing. Some of these Opossums have trouble obtaining water when licking the large stainless steel ball bearings so you may need to use a bottle with a small spout. There are several schools of thought about diets when raising these animals. One breeder, a naturalist, feeds meal worms, crickets, fruit and bread. Another, interested in a non-live, pelleted diet uses fox pellets (reproduction) by Milk Specialties Co. Another uses Exotic Canine( diet and Zoo "A" Diet( by Purina Mills. Some breeders have told me they mix kitten food in with the adult food when the babies are beginning to show interest in solid food, because it is tiny and easy for the weanlings to eat. Most give a bit of fruit every day or every other day to each animal that is on dry food. This is welcomed and relished. It is absolutely imperative that the water dispenser is checked often so the animals so not become dehydrated in case there is an equipment failure.

If a baby detaches from the mother's teat too early, it probably will not be possible to save it. If you must raise an older baby that is not yet weaned, try to foster it to another mom with babies or possibly a mother rat. Once the babies have been weaned by the mother, they have already made great progress eating the same food she eats. When weaning babies, be sure that your cage is large enough so they have a place to escape from each other in case one or more become aggressive. Several nest boxes, branches, and hanging ropes will give them a lot to explore and play with. A small hamster wheel might give them another activity to redirect any hostility. Also include some shredded paper to get them interested in building nests.

Hamsters

From wikipedia:

Hamsters are rodents belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. The subfamily contains about 25 species, classified in six or seven genera.[1]
Hamsters are crepuscular or nocturnal animals which burrow underground in the daylight to avoid being caught by predators. Their diet includes a variety of foods, including dried food, berries, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables. In the wild they feed primarily on seeds, fruits and greens, and will occasionally eat burrowing insects.[2] They have an elongated pouch on each side of their heads that extend to their shoulders, which they stuff full of food to be stored, brought back to the colony or to be eaten later.
Although the Golden Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus) was first described scientifically in 1839, it was not until 1930 that researchers were able to successfully breed and domesticate hamsters.[3] Pet Golden Hamsters are descended from hamsters first found and captured in Syria by zoologist Israel Aharoni.[4]
Hamster behavior can vary depending on their environment, genetics, and interaction with people. Because they are easy to breed in captivity, hamsters are often used as lab animals in more economically developed countries. Hamsters have also become established as popular small house pets[3]. Hamsters are sometimes accepted even in areas where other rodents are disliked, and their stereotypically solitary nature can reduce the risk of excessive litters developing in households.

Choosing a Hamster

When you're thinking of getting a hamster, keep these things in mind:

*Try to buy your hamster in the evening when it is more active. Earlier in the day, most of the hamsters will be asleep.

*It is important to choose a healthy hamster. So, remember:

*The hamster's body should be smooth and well-rounded.

*Its coat should be clean, particularly on the underside of its body. There should be no bare patches.

*Its ears should be clean on the inside, and if you're buying a young hamster, covered with hair on the outside.

*The hamster's eyes should be bright and clean.

*You will probably want to buy your hamster when it is between four and seven weeks old because hamsters are easier to tame when they're young.

*Male and female hamsters are equally good tempered and agreeable.

*You can keep two hamsters in one cage depending on what kind of hamster you want to get. Dzungarian Dwarf hamsters, short dwarf hamsters, and Russian hamsters are all supposed to be pretty social, so you can keep two of one of those kinds together. But it is best if they are litter mates, have been together since birth, and are of the same sex. All other kinds of hamsters need to be kept separately because hamsters are territorial.

*Ask the pet dealer what food the hamster has been eating, so you can give it the same. If you want to feed it something different, remember to change to other foods gradually.

*The pet store will give you a cardboard box to take your hamster home in. But if your ride home lasts more than two hours the hamster may gnaw its way out. So you can take along a small plastic box. It must close securely and have air holes. Add bedding and a small amountof food to the bottom.

Housing

*Before you bring your hammy home, wash its cage with a few drops of mild disinfectant and water. Rinse it out, and dry it well.

*Cover the cage floor with lots of bedding and nesting material. Bedding should be clean, dry, non-toxic, and absorbent. The most popular bedding choice is wood shavings. You need to avoid cedar shavings, since this smelly wood can be too intense for small rodents. Instead go for pine or aspen shavings. (These must be shavings that are produced specifically for the care of small animals.) Also do not use any cotton wool or fluffy bedding cotton material because it can be dangerous for a hamster if eaten. Nesting material can consist of hay, white paper, and cardboard. Put a little in the nesting box to encourage your hamster to make its nest there.

*Lastly, put some food in the cage and set up the water bottle. Add some wood chews, the exercise wheel, and maybe a toilet paper roll for your hamster to play in.

*When you get home, let your hamster settle into its cage as soon as possible. Your hammy may be nervous after the journey, so instead of picking it up to put it in the cage, place its carrying box open on the floor of the cage, and let it come out when it is ready.

*Though you would probably like to start the taming process immediately, you need to leave your hamster alone for the first couple of days (except to feed it, of course). Remember that changing homes was probably a stressful experience for it so it is best to let it explore its new cage.

*Make sure the cage isn't too close to a window that gets the hot afternoon sun, or by a radiator, or in a draft.

*The cage should obviously be out of the reach of cats if you have them. Although a cat probably couldn't get in, it could still frighten your hammy.

*You will have to clean out the cage once a week. After you've cleaned it out replace the food that your hamster stored that won't get moldy. Once a month, clean out the whole cage and wash everything with soapy water and a few drops of mild disinfectant. Rinse and dry well before adding new bedding.

Feeding

Hamsters like to eat seeds, grains and nuts, vegetables, and a little fruit.

*Feed your hamster once a day, in the late afternoon or evening. Give a small handful of hamster mix and a small handful of vegetables.

*If any is left uneaten, give less the next day. If all is eaten, try giving more, but first check to see if your hamster is hoarding in its cage.

*Give a good variety of foods, but introduce any new food gradually.

*You can buy hamster mix at a pet store,it is fortified so that it provides a hamster with a well-balanced diet of essential foods grains, seeds, and nuts.

*Both root and green vegetables should be given, always raw and washed well. Some vegetables that are good for your hammy are:

broccoli
turnips
carrots
chicory
spinach
cauliflower (outside leaves and stalk)
parsley
*cabbage
*Brussels sprouts
*lettuce (not iceberg lettuce)
* = small amounts only

*To make sure your hamster gets the vitamins it needs, you can buy vitamin drops for small animals at the pet store.

*Never leave your hamster without fresh water to drink.

*You can feed pieces of apple, pear, grape, and tomato, all in small amounts only. But remember that fruit decays quickly, so check that none is left uneaten in the cage for more than a day. Also remove any uneaten vegetables that your hamster stored so that they do not become moldy.

*If you are going on vacation for more than three days, you can take your hamster with you, or arrange for a friend to feed it. For a shorter time, it's ok to leave enough food in the cage to last until you get back. Don't forget to fill up the water bottle.

Handling

Before you handle your hamster you will need to tame it. Do not put it off, because it will be easier while your hamster is still young.
Talk to your hamster while you're taming it. It will get to know your voice.

Hamsters bite only when they are frightened. If your hamster does nip your finger, it is best to put it back in its cage and leave it alone a couple of hours so that it can calm down.

You should be able to tame your hamster in about three weeks if you follow this method. Do not rush it, or you may have to start all over again.

1. First watch your hammy for a few days to find out when it is awake and active the best time to start taming. Note its favorite foods so you can use them to overcome its fear. Now start putting food straight on the cage floor, so your hamster gets used to your hand and learns that it brings food. After a few days, leave your hand there while the hamster eats.

2. When your hamster is confident enough to eat beside your hand, put the food in the palm of your hand. It may a while before the hamster will eat from your hand without fear. When it does, you can stroke it gently with one finger along its back. Never stroke its head.

3. Next, get your hamster used to being picked up. When it is eating from your hand, cup the other hand over it, and lift it gently a little way off the ground for a few moments at a time. After a few more days, if your hammy seems happy being lifted up, you can take it right out of the cage in your cupped hands.

4. Play with it near the ground so that if you drop it or it jumps out of your hands, it doesn't have a long way to fall. Let it run from one hand to the other. Soon it will be confident enough to run along your arm.

A Lost Hammy!

Don't lose hope yet! Here are some different techniques I've heard of to use if your hamster gets lost--

*Try putting food in the cage and leave it with a door/hole open near where you think the hamster is hiding. During the night the hungry hammy might return to its cage.

*Spread some sunflower seeds in each room, counting the number you leave in each room, and then shut all the doors. (Do this at night before you go to bed) The next morning you will easily be able to tell which room your hamster is in, so this will hopefully narrow down your search. Once you know which room your hamster is in, make sure you keep that door closed. You can then use of the previously mentioned methods to recapture your hamster.

*Make a ramp with a piece of wood up to a bucket in which you have put some food. Then, make a little trail of food on the floor, up the piece of wood, and finally put enough food in the bucket so your hamster will jump on in, when he/she discover this treasure. But make sure the bucket is tall enough so your hamster can't climb out the side and escape again. Or maybe you could put butter on the sides of the bucket like suggested in the next tactic.

Health

I've received some emails concerning the question of whether or not you should bathe your hamster. The answer to this question is no. Hamsters supposedly do not have any offensive body smells because they clean themselves. If anything will start to smell it'll be its cage. So just make sure you clean out the cage at least once a week. If, for some reason, you really feel that your hamster needs some help cleaning, you can use a soft toothbrush and some lukewarm water to do this. But make sure you don't drench the hamster because then it could become sick.

Symptoms,possible cause and what to do

Sneezing, sore eyes, and runny nose - This may be an allergy, maybe to some nesting material, air freshener, or spray polish. But it also could be a cold, so keep your hamster warm, and if it's no better the next day, take it to the vet.

Fur around tail is dirty, and possibly wet - Your hamster has diarrhea, which could have been caused by eating something that did not agree with it. But this could also be the first sign of a serious illness called wet tail, so take your hamster to the vet at once.

Bare patches in the fur - This may just be old age, or the hamster may have rubbed against something and worn the fur away. But if it is scratching the bare batches, they could be caused by mites. The vet will give you something to clear them up.

Refusal to eat, a swollen cheek, and runny eyes - Your hamster has something stuck in its cheek pouch. Take it to the vet.

After a fall, or being handled too much, the hamster lies quite still, as if dead - It is in a state of shock, though it may not be seriously hurt. If you leave it in a quiet, warm place, it should recover in an hour or two. If not, take it to the vet.

Cuts,the hamster has cut itself on something sharp - Add a drop of antiseptic to warm water (boiled and allowed to cool), and bathe the cut gently. If it gets red and inflamed, take your hamster to the vet.

Chinchilla

Chinchilla


Chinchillas are crepuscular rodents, slightly larger than ground squirrels, and are native to the Andes mountains in South America. Along with their relatives, viscachas, they belong to the family Chinchillidae.

The animal (whose name literally means "little Chincha") is named after the Chincha people of the Andes, who once wore its dense, velvet-like fur.By the end of the 19th century, chinchillas had become quite rare due to hunting for their fur.Most chinchillas currently used by the fur industry for clothing and other accessories are farm-raised.

Native environment

In their native habitat, chinchillas live in burrows or crevices in rocks.They are agile jumpers and can jump up to 6 ft (1.8 m).Predators in the wild include birds of prey, skunks, felines, snakes and canines. Chinchillas have a variety of defensive tactics including spraying urine and releasing fur if bitten.In the wild, chinchillas have been observed eating plants, fruits, seeds, and small insects.This diet could irritate the digestive system of a domestic chinchilla whose diet should be primarily hay-based.

In nature, chinchillas live in social groups that resemble colonies but are properly called herds. Chinchillas can breed any time of the year. Their gestation period is 111 days, longer than most rodents. Due to this long pregnancy, chinchillas are born fully furred and with eyes open. Litters are usually small in number, predominately twins.

Chinchilla species
Comparison of Chinchilla species

There are two living species of chinchilla, Chinchilla brevicaudata and Chinchilla lanigera.There is little noticeable difference between the species except that the Chinchilla brevicaudata has a shorter tail, a thicker neck and shoulders, and shorter ears.This species is currently facing extinction.The Chinchilla lanigera species, though rare, can be found in the wild.Domestic chinchillas are thought to come from the lanigera species.

Fur industry
Chinchilla fur coat and accessories

The international trade in chinchilla fur goes back to the 16th century. The fur from chinchillas is popular in the fur trade due to its extremely soft feel, because they have about 60 hairs sprouting from each hair follicle. The color is usually very even, which makes it ideal for small garments or the lining of large garments, though some large garments can be made entirely from the fur. A single, full-length coat made from chinchilla fur may require as many as 150 pelts, as chinchillas are relatively small.This fact led to the extinction of one species, and put serious pressure on the other two. Though it is illegal to hunt wild chinchillas, the wild animals are now on the verge of becoming extinct because of the illegal hunting that continues. Domestic chinchillas are still bred for this use.

Chinchillas as pets

Chinchillas require extensive exercise and should have a large exercise wheel (over 15 in (380 mm) in diameter) with solid surfaces. Chinchilla legs and toes can easily get caught in a mesh running surface and tails can get caught in spokes. Chinchilla teeth need to be worn down as their teeth grow continually and can prevent the chinchilla from eating if they become overgrown.Wooden sticks, pumice stone and chew toys are good options, but conifer and citrus woods (like cedar or orange) should be avoided because of the high content of resins, oils and phenols that are toxic for chinchillas. Birch, willow, apple tree, manzanita or kiln-dried pine are all safe woods for chinchillas to chew.

The chinchilla lacks the ability to sweat; therefore, if temperatures get above 25°C (80°F), the chinchilla could get overheated and may suffer from heat stroke.Chinchillas dissipate heat by routing blood to their large ears, so red ears signal overheating.

Chinchillas can be found in a variety of colors including the standard gray (the only color found in nature), beige, white, ebony, and many others.They instinctively clean their fur by taking dust baths, in which they roll around in special chinchilla dust made of fine pumice. In the wild their dust is formed from fine ground volcanic rocks.The dust gets into their fur and absorbs oil and dirt.These baths are needed a few times a week.Chinchillas do not bathe in water because the dense fur prevents air-drying, retaining moisture close to the skin, which can cause fungus growth or fur rot.A wet chinchilla must be dried immediately with towels and a no-heat hair dryer. The fur is so thick that it resists parasites such as fleas.The fur also reduces loose dander, making chinchillas hypo-allergenic.

Chinchillas eat and digest desert grasses and cannot efficiently process fatty foods, high protein foods, or too many green plants. A high quality, hay-based pellet and a constant supply of loose hay will sufficiently meet all of their dietary needs.Chinchillas have very sensitive GI tracts that can be easily disrupted so it is important to maintain them on a healthy diet.Avoid chinchilla feed that includes a mixture; chinchillas may avoid the healthy high fiber pellets in favor of items like raisins and seeds. Fresh vegetables and fruit (with high moisture content) should be avoided as these can cause bloat in a chinchilla, which can be fatal. Sweets and dried fruit treats, such as raisins should be limited to one or two per day. Chinchillas also eat and drink in very small amounts, therefore, overfeeding is easy.This can lead to diarrhea, or in the long term, diabetes. Nuts should be avoided due to their high fat content.High protein foods and hay (such as alfalfa) can cause liver problems and should be limited.

Hedgehogs

From wikipedia:

The most common species of domesticated hedgehog is the African Pygmy hedgehog, a hybrid of the White-bellied or Four-toed Hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris) and the Algerian Hedgehog (A. algirus). It is smaller than the European Hedgehog, and thus is sometimes called African Pygmy Hedgehog. Other species kept as pets are the Egyptian long-eared hedgehog (Hemiechinus auritus auritus) and the Indian long-eared hedgehog (Hemiechinus collaris).

Hedgehog domestication became popular in the early 1980s. They still have much of their wild behavior, including a fear of predators - especially humans, but buying from a responsible breeder and proper handling will do a lot to ensure a friendly relationship. Since domestication began, several new colours of hedgehogs have been created or become common, including albino and pinto hedgehogs.

Domesticated species prefer a warm climate (above 22 °C , 72 °F) and do not naturally hibernate. Attempts to hibernate due to lowered body temperatures can be fatal, but are easily reversed if caught quickly (within a few days). In the wild they eat a diet of mainly insects, but pet owners generally prefer a diet composed primarily of high protein low fat high quality cat food, with regular treats such as mealworms, fruits, vegetables, and cooked unseasoned meats.

BASIC HEDGEHOG CARE

HOUSING:

* A metal or plastic cage (like those made for guinea pigs or ferrets) works great, or a 20 gallon or larger aquarium. Large plastic storage containers also work very well as a hedgehog home. Make sure that the cage has at least 2 square feet of floor space, and that the cage bottom and sides have no wire grates that little hedgehog feet can fall through and get hurt on, or get stuck. Clean the cage at least once a week, and odor won't be a problem.
* Hedgehogs like to have a hiding place or cover to sleep under. Providing such a hiding place will reduce nervousness. Large half logs, a kleenex box with a hole cut in the side, plastic bowls, or even a hedgehog sized cloth bag will work well.
* You will want to place your hedgehog's cage in a warm area of the house. Hedgehogs need to be kept in a room with a temperature of 70F to 85F. If a hedgehog gets too cold it will attempt to go into hibernation. Heating pads can work well in the winter, but make sure that it doesn't cover the entire cage, so that your hedgehog can escape the heat if he starts to get too hot. Be careful using heating pads, as hedgies who have difficulty moving can easily be burned by them.
* Unless you are attempting to breed hedgehogs, keep males and females separated. If a female has babies while there are other hedgehogs in the cage, it is likely to cause her stress and either she or the other hedgehogs are likely to eat the babies. Also, hedgehogs can get pregnant when they are as young as 8 weeks old, but this is not healthy for them. A female hedgehog should not be bred until she is at least 6 months old.
* In the wild, hedgehogs are solitary animals. In captivity, some hedgehogs will accept (or even crave) the companionship of other hedgehogs, but don't necessarily assume this is the case. Hedgehogs can have lethal roommate disputes, so if you decide to try to house two hedgehogs together, be sure to observe them closely (or at least be within earshot to separate them in case of fights) for at least the first 24 to 48 hours. Hedgehogs can emit a bloodcurdling scream when upset or hurt, but they can also get into fairly quiet tussles, so be careful.

BEDDING:

* You can use a wide variety of beddings for your hedgehog. Cloth liners, newspaper, recycled paper products and aspen have been recommended by many. A little warning about wood beddings, they have been known to carry mite eggs which could hatch and infest your new pet, wood beddings also can become lodged in sensitive areas of your hedgehog. Be certain to inspect your hedgehog daily for redness or swellings.

TOYS:

* Hedgehogs need lots of exercise, as they tend to become obese with inactivity (who doesn't? . A large wheel (11" in diameter or so) is recommended. Be sure that the running surface of the wheel is solid, so that the hedgie is not at risk for slipping and breaking legs. You can find a listing of hedgehog wheels on the internet at http://www.mihog.org. Wheels made for rodents with metal bars should in no case be used, as a broken leg may result. Many owners report that their hedgehogs enjoy anything that they can push or manipulate. Examples of toys that owners have reported their hedgehog enjoying are: toilet paper tubes, brightly colored plastic toy trucks, cat balls, and various stuffed animals.

DIET:

* Diet is an area where there is considerable controversy. We still don't know exactly what a hedgehog needs, but there have been preliminary studies at the Bronx Zoo. Information presented at the 1998 Go Hog Wild Hedgehog Show and Seminar indicated that hedgies need a diet that has a good amount of protein and is low in fat. A fiber content of approximately 15% (preferably from chitin, but hedgehogs can utilize fiber from plant sources, too) is optimal. At this time, no single food fully meets the optimal nutritional requirement for hedgehogs. Many of the hedgehog foods on the market do a pretty good job of meeting most of the needs, but a good quality commercial cat food didn't seem much off the mark, either, according to the statistics given in the presentation. Due to the lack of knowledge veterinarians and owners will agree that a hedgehog should be fed a mixture of foods supplemented by insects, fruits, vegetables and cooked meats.

* There are now a number of good hedgehog foods on the market. Some examples of good hedgehog foods are Insectivore Fare, Select Diet, Pretty Pets, 8n1, L'Avian, and others. The use of Vitacraft hedgehog food is very strongly discouraged, as it appears to have been crafted for use with the much larger European breed of hedgehogs, and contains some choking hazards for the smaller African hedgehogs.

HANDLING:

* The more you handle your hedgehog, the more it will get accustomed to you.
* At first, your hedgehog may be scared. It may ball up or puff air and click its tongue to scare away any potential predator, including you. Approach your hedgehog slowly and quietly to gain its trust. Pick up your hedgehog from underneath to avoid the quills. You shouldn't need gloves to pick it up, even if it is scared, since you can slide your fingers underneath to distribute the weight. If you are afraid of being pricked, then take a pair of gloves and get them smelling like you (tuck them under your pillow for a couple of nights, or put them in your shirt for a while) so the hedgie will associate your smell with being picked up.
* Hedgehogs deserve the love, attention and affection that any pet deserves. They may not be cuddly as a kitten, but with interaction you will discover they have personalities at least as interesting, if not more.

ONE LAST NOTE:

* Don't be surprised if your hedgie starts shedding a lot of quills when it is about 8 to 12 weeks of age. This is a normal process, and is known as "quilling." The hedgehog is simply shedding baby spines and you should be able to see new adults spines pushing through the skin. To be on the safe side, though, you may want to check for mites or fleas. Signs of mites include crustiness around the quills and seriously dry looking skin. Both mites and fleas can be treated effectively with Frontline spray, available from your vet. When adolescent hedgies are "quilling" they may be somewhat grumpy, but should return to normal temperament once the quills are in.

Guinea Pigs

Names and Terms

* Latin name: Cavia porcellus
* Also called cavies (singular is cavy).
* Females are called sows, males called boars, and babies called pups.
* Hairless varieties also available, sometimes called "skinny" pigs.

Appearance

* Approximately 10 inches long, and 700-1500 grams some weighs more.
* Rounded stout body, no visible tail (a few tail vertebrae can be felt under the skin).
* Variety of breeds with different coat types and color patterns. The most commonly found breeds are the American (short smooth hair coat), Abyssinian (short coat with "swirls" called rosettes) and the Peruvian (long haired). A wide variety of colors are seen.

Before You Decide on Guinea Pigs

* Guinea pigs are social animals, and you should consider keeping a same sex pair so they have company. A pair of females is a good choice; a pair of males may be fine but may fight.
* They are a long-term commitment, with an expected life span of around 5-7 years, although up to 10 isn't unusual.
* They need a large cage (but fortunately it is easy to meet their needs with a home made cage).
* While usually quiet they can call out quite loudly, and can be active both day and night.
* They may be nervous at first but rarely bite and generally become very tame with frequent handling.
* Usually good family pets (but make sure children handle them gently).

Finding a Guinea Pig

* Pet stores: only if the store/staff are knowledgeable about guinea pigs, keep them in appropriate, clean housing with a good diet, and handle the guinea pigs regularly. Look for stores that house males and females separately, to avoid a surprise litter.
* Breeders (caviary): best option if looking for a show quality pig or a specific type, but also good for finding pet quality pigs. A good breeder will make sure the babies are socialized well and handled from an early age.
* Shelters: guinea pigs often end up in shelters or rescues and this is a great place to give a guinea pig a second chance at life. Guinea pigs from shelters might be a little more skittish at first if they were not handled much when young, but most will settle down in their new homes once a routine is established.
* Whichever source is chosen, make sure the guinea pig appears in good health and condition, and is well socialized and easy to handle.

Choosing a Guinea Pig

* Try to avoid guinea pigs that are panicky when handled, especially if they do not relax quickly, and also those that are overly quiet and calm (may be ill).
* The guinea pig should be alert and active.
* Avoid guinea pigs that are overly skinny or grossly overweight. The body should be firm and rounded.
* The nose, eyes, ears, and rear end should be clean and free from discharge.
* The coat should be full and soft.
* Check the skin for flakes or redness, and be on the lookout for any signs of parasites such as lice.

Caring for Guinea Pigs

* Introduction to Guinea Pig Breeds - descriptions and photos of different types of guinea pigs.

American

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This breed is also known as the English Cavy. The coat is smooth and short and lies flat to the body. This is the most popular and commonly seen breed.

The Satin American is also recognized by the American Cavy Breeders Association (ACBA). Satin refers to the sheen of the coat; the satin breeds have very shiny, sleek coats.

Abyssinian

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The Abyssinian has a very distinctive appearance. The coat is made up of multiple swirls of hair referred to as rosettes. Their hair is quite dense and coarse, and it radiates in circles from multiple points on the body to make up a series of whirls and ridges. For show purposes, Abyssinian must have a minimum of 8 rosettes, in a symmetrical pattern. These guinea pigs always look somewhat dishevelled.

The Satin Abyssinian is also recognized by the ACBA; again the satin simply means the coat has a deep shine.

Peruvian

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The Peruvian coat is smooth and straight, and grows to several inches in length. The hair naturally parts down the center of the back, and also grows forward over the head.

The dense, soft coat of the Peruvian requires a great deal of grooming, and many owners of Peruvian guinea pigs end up trimming the hair to keep it manageable (if the guinea pig is to be shown, wraps can be used to keep the hair from getting tangled or soiled).

The ACBA also recognizes the Peruvian Satin (again, referring to the shiny quality of the coat).


Silkie/Sheltie

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The Silkie is also known as the Sheltie, and has a very silky long coat. In contrast to the Peruvian, the Silkie's soft coat does not naturally part along the back, and grows backwards from the head.

A Silkie Satin (shiny coat) is also recognized by the ACBA.

Crested

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This is a short haired guinea pig with a single rosette (swirl) on the forehead. There are two types: one is the White Crested Guinea Pig (also called American Crested), where the crest is white in contrast with the rest of the coat (no other white on the body). In the "self" crested guinea pig (sometimes called English crested), the crest color is the same as the rest of the coat.

Teddy

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This short haired guinea pig is characterized by a short dense coat with bent (kinked) hair shafts that makes the coat stand on end, giving a very fuzzy appearance.

There is also a Satin Teddy, where the coat has a deep sheen.

Texel

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This uncommon guinea pig has a very distinctive long curly coat. The Texel guinea pig is another very high-maintenance pet. Produced from breeding Rex to Sheltie.

Coronet

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The Coronet cavy is characterized by it's long, soft, dense coat and a crest (or coronet) on top of it's head.

The coronet must be evenly centered, and should have a pinpoint center.

Unlike the White Crested, the Coronet may have white on any part of it's body, and comes in all of the recognized colors. Produced by breeding Sheltie to a Crested.

Alpaca


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A curly coated Peruvian. Hair grows over face like a Peruvian. Most are first generation hybrids of Peruvians and other breeds.

Merino


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The merino has curly hair with a rosette on the head. Cross-breeding between Rex and Coronet.

Lunkarya

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Lunkarya are a very laid-back and curious breed. The lunkarya gene is dominant and cannot be carried. All lunkarya are the Peruvian variant and any other type, sheltie or coronet must have the lunkarya prefix attached. The main characteristic of the lunkarya is the dense, harsh coat and this can be in any mixture of colours. Sweden and Germany both have their breed standards for the lunkarya (despite being different in terms of presentation) and have some champions already.

Rex

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The English rex has short curly hair, standing upright. Various colours are possible. Rex and Teddy look very much alike but they are genetically different.

Hairless

The Skinny Pig is a very unusual, yet an increasingly popular breed of Guinea Pig. There are actually two types of Hairless Guinea Pig, this one and another called the Baldwin Guinea Pig. These nearly hairless critters have a funny way of winning the hearts of nearly all they come into contact with.

Skinny Pigs are as curious and mischievous as any other breed of Guinea pig, but some owners and breeders claim that they are more outgoing. They are quite playful, and they love attention.

Skinny Pigs do not require the brushing that other Guinea pigs need, but they do have certain special needs. They are more susceptible to injury than breeds with hair covering their bodies, and they are more sensitive to sunlight and temperature. They need a responsible owner to keep them happy and healthy.

*Skinny

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*Baldwin

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